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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse CheyneWeare Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship
Blacknor FS
Coastguard N
7
L'Odyssee Noire .
2
tΩ
6c+
Climb the technical wall to an overlap. Pull over and climb the
shallow groove above to good holds. Move right to the lower-off.
FA. Gary Gibson, Jean Marc Anagnostidis 7.5.2002
8
Xavier's Wall.
4
sΩ
6a
Superb climbing. Follow a crack and groove left of an arete.
There is a tricky move near the top.
Photo on page 164
.
FA. Pete Oxley 21.9.1994
The next two routes share a lower-off which can cause problems
when the wall is busy. Avoid top-roping them if possible.
9
Coming of Age.
2
sΩ
6a
The black wall gives a good pitch with an awkward start.
FA. Jan Rostron, Pete Oxley, Mark Higgs (all led) 8.9.1996
0
Underage .
4
sΩ
6a
The direct line up the black wall has fine climbing throughout
and a blind crux move. High in the grade.
FA. Jan Rostron 5.1997
q
Xavier Zoo .
2
tsΩ
6a
A pleasant route taking a direct line up the wall to finish at a
shallow groove.
FA. Gary Gibson 8.5.2003
w
Young at Heart. . . . . . . . . .
2
Ω
6a+
The right-hand line wanders around a bit.
FA. Pete Oxley 6.1997
1
September Mourning .
2
sΩ
7b
A hard fingery start over the overlap leads to open climbing
above, finishing up a thin crack in the headwall.
FA. Gary Gibson 15.9.2002
2
Wharfedale Boyz.
1
psΩ
7c
The huge leaning wall and roof above the tidal shelf is very
sustained and needs good conditions.
FA. Pete Oxley 30.4.1995
3
Screaming Skulls.
3
sΩ
7c
A long and sustained pitch with a succession of bouldery moves
between jugs in evermore spaced-out situations.
FA. Pete Oxley 10.12.1999
4
Tennessee .
4
sΩ
7c
A brilliant route direct up the bulging face, starting from the tidal
trench.
Photo on pages 9 and 167
.
FA. Andy Long 7.1998
5
Darkest Before Dawn .
1
sΩ
7b
A desperate bouldery start stops most attempts. Above is an
unusual long layback.
FA. Pete Oxley 23.5.1997
6
Actions Speak Louder.
1
fsΩ
7a+
Hard and fingery moves over the roof are followed by great
climbing up the wall and rib.
FA. Pete Oxley 21.9.1994
1 2
3
4 5
6
7
8
9 0 q w
174
Coastguard South
Xavier's Wall Area
Xavier's Wall Area
A fine wall with a handful of the best lower 6s on the Isle,
plus a few steep lines through overhangs.
Tides -
The platform below is covered for a few hours at
high tide which cuts off access to all the routes.
Approach (see page 166) -
Continue under the main
Coastguard South cliffs along the wave-washed platform.
23m
23m
RF%
17 min