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Swanage Lulworth Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Coastguard N
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse
CheyneWeare
Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship Blacknor FS
y
Shining Heart .
2
psΩ
7c
A well-positioned power problem. Move up the wall and step
left. Powerful moves up the rib allow a crack to be grasped.
Climb this awkwardly and finish up the easier wall above.
FA. Pete Oxley 20.8.1989
u
Frenzied Detruncation .
2
sΩ
7b+
A tough start is the entry price to the fine groove line above.
Make technical and fingery moves on tiny crimps and smears to
the overhang, then continue up the groove to the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 27.7.1989
i
Prison Sex .
2
sptΩ
7c+
The shallow arete is completely desperate from start to finish.
Photo on page 27
.
FA. Pete Oxley 28.5.1993
o
Midnight Oil .
1
tΩ
7a
Considered to be a worthwhile line.
FA. Brian Tilley 5.1989
p
Hang ‘em High .
1
tsΩ
7b
A smart test-piece which supersedes an older route called
Gunbarrel Highway
that gained the line by stepping out right
from
Midnight Oil
.
FA. Pete Oxley 2000. FA. (Gunbarrel Highway) Brian Tilley 5.1989
a
Gun Runner.
1
Ω
6a
Occasionally wet due to a drainage streak, but a good line.
FA. Pete Oxley 19.3.2000
0
The Man Who Never Found Himself
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
sΩ
6a+
An enjoyable climb. Ascend the steep lower wall and bulge to
the base of the corner. Follow the corner to the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 15.8.1988
q
Van People.
2
tΩ
7a
A fine climb, although a little run-out in places. Climb straight
up the wall and bulges to meet a very shallow depression on the
upper wall. Climb the shallow depression to a hard finish.
FA. Brian Tilley 20.8.1989
w
Fantasy Island.
1
sΩ
6c
An unusually tough layback which is sometimes damp.
FA. Mark Higgs 28.5.1993
e
Dosvadanya .
1
sΩ
6c+
A diagonal traverse from
Fantasy Island
to the lower-off on
Retaining the Ashes
. A sling is needed to extend the 2nd bolt.
35m of climbing so make sure your rope is long enough.
FA. Pete Oxley, Brian Tilley 27.11.1999
r
La Usurpadora.
fsΩ
7c
An artificial eliminate up the wall right of
Fantasy Island
. Climb
the fingery wall direct until a traverse rightwards joins the finish
of
Shining Heart
.
FA. Pete Oxley 25.5.2000
t
Heartland.
1
psΩ
7c
A short, but significant link-up. Move a little way up the wall and
break right to join
Shining Heart
at its powerful crux.
FA. Pete Oxley 17.5.2000
7
8 9
0
q
w
e
r
t
y
u
i
o
p
a
171
Nothing but the Groove Area
Coastguard North
21m