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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse CheyneWeare Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship
Blacknor FS
Coastguard N
5
Into the Groove .
1
tΩ
6b+
A short, but useful link-up. Start as for
Retaining the Ashes
.
FA. Pete Oxley 2000
6
Nothing but the Groove.
4
tΩ
6c+
The soaring groove on the left-hand side of the wall is a fine
line, although the groove itself is relatively easy. Move up with
difficulty to the groove proper and continue up it more easily.
Photo on page 3
.
FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.1988
7
Running It In! .
2
fstΩ
7b+
A very direct line that involves a good deal of fingery and
technical moves with little in the way of respite.
FA. Martin Crocker 10.6.1990
8
Superfly Guy.
4
sΩ
7a
A quality pitch. Climb up and then left, past some good pockets
to a large hold below the upper wall. Make some difficult moves
to a slim groove. Follow this, and the wall to its right, to the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.1988
9
Lost in Rock .
2
tΩ
6c+
Good technical moves are the main ingredients of this often-
overlooked route. Climb the initial wall, then pull rightwards
over the bulge. Make some perplexing moves up and across the
left-leaning groove before finishing up a thin crack.
FA. Pete Oxley 17.7.1992
1
Spare Rib.
2
sΩ
7b
Fine climbing, following a clean white tower of rock.
FA. Mike Robertson 6.5.1995
2
Girl Power .
2
tΩ
7a+
A bouldery crux on compact rock up the right-hand side of the arete.
FA. Pete Oxley 2.12.97
3
Steve's Route .
1
ftΩ
7b
After an easy start, the central scoop gives an absorbing climb.
FA. Chris Cubitt 5.1998
4
Retaining the Ashes.
2
sΩ
6b
A testing pitch that follows a leaning, thin crack up the wall.
FA. Steve Taylor 7.3.1993
1
2 3
4
5
6
7
e
170
Coastguard North
Nothing but the Groove Area
Nothing but the Groove Area
A large, grey-streaked wall with many excellent and
sustained wall pitches. Its proximity to the parking and
the spread of quality routes across the grades make it
quite a popular spot. Seepage can be a problem.
Approach (see page 166) -
From the lookout, drop
carefully down the main approach path. This wall is the
first encountered above the path as you descend to the
boulder beach.
22m
RF@
12 min