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Swanage Lulworth Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Coastguard N
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse
CheyneWeare
Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship Blacknor FS
u
Vespasian.
4
tprsΩ
8b
The line of shallow open grooves is the hardest route on
Portland that requires a BIG span for success.
FA. Pete Oxley 1.10.1994
i
Sale of the Century.
2
stΩ
7b
The central blind crack gives some very varied climbing. Hold
something in reserve for the last moves.
FA. Pete Oxley 8.9.1996
o
Zero Tolerance .
1
prΩ
7b+
A rightward line from the ledge on
Sale of the Century
, up an
overhung ramp. Needs good conditions.
FA. Pete Oxley 23.9.1998
p
Mid-Strife Oasis .
1
tΩ
7c
Very hard climbing in its lower half.
FA. Pete Oxley 18.9.1994
a
Eternal Spider.
2
sprΩ
7c+
This brilliant and powerful pitch surges violently up the imposing
white wall.
FA. Pete Oxley 18.4.1993
The next line is an open project (potential 8a+).
s
Happy to Go Blind .
1
stΩ
7b+
A climb of two halves. Follow a tricky calcified crack to a grass
ledge, then contort up the innocent-looking blank groove.
FA. Pete Oxley 12.12.1997
0
Wax Museum .
4
psΩ
7b+
A magnificent line up the eye-catching sheet of orange
flowstone.
FA. Martin Crocker 1.4.1990
q
Dr Phibes.
2
sΩ
7b
More brilliant flowstone finger-flakes after an awkward start.
FA. Pete Oxley 28.4.1993
w
Clockwork Orange .
2
sΩ
7c
The power-packed blind crack leads to a blank headwall.
FA. Gavin Symonds 4.1999
The next line of bolts is an old project (potential 8a)
e
The Nth Degree.
1
rsΩ
7c
Blast up the overhanging scoop and big flake. Continue just right
of the bolts, jumping to gain the break. Step back left to finish.
FA. Pete Oxley 4.6.1998
r
Wasted.
1
tsΩ
7b+
The open scoop leads into a left-trending undercut. Can be greasy.
FA. Neal Heanes 28.3.1999
t
Last Orders.
1
ptsΩ
7c
A right-hand finish to
Wasted
. Move diagonally right on small
holds then up to the finish of
Bar Room Brawl
.
FA. Pete Oxley 10.5.1999
y
Bar Room Brawl.
2
pstΩ
7c+
An overhanging groove next to the huge black streak. So named
after a couple of knee-bars on the route.
FA. Pete Oxley 23.4.1995
a
s
r
t
y
u
i
o
p
169
Wax Museum Area
Coastguard North
22m
Project