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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse CheyneWeare Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship
Blacknor FS
Coastguard N
3
China White .
2
tsΩ
6c+
An appealing thin seam up the white wall. A fine pitch.
FA. Brian Tilley 11.7.1989
4
Pure Shores .
1
sΩ
6c
A varied wall pitch that starts up the easy flake-crack.
FA. Pete Oxley 1.5.2000
5
Meridian Line.
2
fsΩ
7c
Directly above the pillar, a blind crack leads to finger-burning
mini-flakes. Fantastic climbing in the right conditions.
FA. Pete Oxley 3.10.1998
6
Ming the Merciless.
1
srΩ
7c+
Very pumpy, with a desperate start.
FA. Pete Oxley 7.11.1998
7
Headwall Emptiness.
2
sΩ
7b+
A classic on a dry, sunny day, and well worth waiting for.
FA. Pete Oxley 12.7.1992
8
Glycerine .
2
stΩ
7c+
A big stamina pitch with a complicated lower section and a hard
finish. No cheating with long slings on the belay!
FA. Pete Oxley 17.10.1998
9
Sand Castles.
slΩ
7a+
The line of flakes left of
Wax Museum
.
FA. Paul Twomey 9.7.1995
1
El Poder de un Coño.
2
sΩ
6c+
The open groove just right of a huge prow has an airy climax.
FA. Mike Robertson 5.2.1994
The finger crack to the right is the
Explorator Motivator, E3 6a
.
2
100% Colombian.
1
stΩ
7a+
The white wall has a stopper mid-height move and a tricky finale.
FA. Pete Oxley 19.3.2000
1
2
3
4
5
6 7 8
9 0 q
w
e r
168
Coastguard North
Wax Museum Area
Wax Museum Area
These clean and appealing walls are home to some great
stamina test-pieces. One drawback is that most of the
routes are condition dependent and need sunshine and
minimal humidity. The first four routes are situated 30m
north of the main crag above a grass slope.
Approach (see page 166) -
From the base of the
approach to the boulder beach, head right (looking out)
for 100m.
RF
13 min
19m
22m
Project
China White