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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse CheyneWeare Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship
Blacknor FS
Coastguard N
6
Red Medicine .
3
stΩ
7b+
Sustained and unobvious climbing on immaculate flowstone.
FA. Pete Oxley 14.5.1995
7
Aeon Flux.
2
stΩ
7b
A hard lower half. Good rock all the way.
FA. Pete Oxley 17.7.1991
8
Under the Sky, Inside the Sea
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
sΩ
7a
Steep moves on the sharp arete lead to a finishing corner.
Photo on page 5
.
FA. Pete Oxley 17.7.1991
9
Forget Columbus.
3
sΩ
7a+
Magnificent tufa-curtains and a huge flake.
FA. Pete Oxley 6.6.1993
0
Buried Violence.
2
sΩ
7b+
Very hard moves on the lower wall lead to an amusing finish on
organ pipes.
FA. Pete Oxley 2.11.1993
q
Walking the King.
4
sΩ
6b+
A classic pumpy wall of steep cracks and flowstone with the
crux at the top. The best 6b+ on Portland.
FA. Pete Oxley 20.4.1993
w
An Ideal for Living.
2
stΩ
7a+
More quality rock. Pumpy and technical all the way.
FA. Pete Oxley 21.8.1995
e
Time Bomb.
2
stΩ
7a
The central line on the coral wall finishes up a slab. This line has
lost a hold on the lower wall and may now be 7a+.
FA. Pete Oxley 21.8.1995
1
Small Talk Costs Walls.
1
Ω
6c+
The roof, juggy wall and flowstone tufa left of
Smashing Orange
.
Start in a small alcove above the tidal trench. Best done at
dead-low tide, otherwise the rope will get wet when pulled.
FA. Pete Oxley 27.5.1998
2
Smashing Orange .
2
sΩ
7a
Classy crack climbing after a hard bulge above the trench.
FA. Pete Oxley 11.5.1991
3
Drive Blind.
2
tΩ
7a
A tough lower wall and a fine, easier, upper groove.
FA. Pete Oxley 11.5.1991
4
Forensic Scene .
2
sΩ
7a+
A lovely flowstone arete. A useful rest before the top move is the
well-deserved reward after the steep start.
FA. Pete Oxley 14.5.1995
5
Quick as Rainbows.
3
sΩ
7b
A beautiful, frozen wave of flowstone. Brilliant as long as the top
is clean, but if not climbed regularly, it can be dirty.
FA. Pete Oxley 17.7.1991
1 2 3
4 5 6 7
8
9
0
q
w
e
r t y
176
Coastguard South
Quick as Rainbows Area
Quick as Rainbows Area
A magnificent wall of immaculate flowstone. It sometimes
suffers from seepage, can be dusty and is only accessible
for a limited period.
Approach and Tides (see page 166) -
Continue past
the tidal trench, which is uncovered for 2 to 4 hours at
low tide. Wading in could gain you an extra hour. In calm
seas, it is possible to traverse the back wall to get in
early, or out late, but take great care!
RF%
20 min
24m
Tidal trench access 2 to 4 hours at low tide