Page 13 - Dorset2012-Preview

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Swanage Lulworth Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Coastguard N
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse
CheyneWeare
Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship Blacknor FS
p
Come In and Burn .
2
stΩ
7b
Climb the wall to mid-height, and continue up the difficult groove.
FA. Pete Oxley 5.7.1997
a
Azymuth.
2
stΩ
7a+
The pumpy arete is an exciting pitch.
FA. Pete Oxley 23.5.1997
s
L'esprit du vent.
2
stΩ
7a+
Entertaining climbing. It follows a big arching line up the side
wall with a definite crux move.
FA. Pete Oxley 28.5.1997
8m right again, past a shallow cave, is a pillar of excellent white
rock above a flat platform.
a
Restriction (routes 23 and 24 to project) -
No climbing
from 1st March to 30th June due to nesting birds.
d
Down to the Wire.
2
rsΩ
7b+
A fine pitch directly up the arete above an easy starting groove.
There is a long reach from an undercut at mid-height which is
probably only 7b for the tall.
FA. Pete Oxley 12.2.2000
f
Dawn of a New Age.
2
ftΩ
7b+
Starting 2m right of a flake-line. Hard, blind climbing on perfect
rock follows the direct line up the front face of the white pillar.
Very fingery and powerful on the crux.
FA. Pete Oxley 26.1.2000
The final line of bolts is an old project.
a
Restriction -
Directly below the large fence, where the
boulders run out, is the beginning of a no climbing
sanctuary zone that continues for 300m to White Hole.
r
Winning at Rodeo .
3
stΩ
7a
An enticing line with an intriguing corner high up.
FA. Mark Higgs 21.8.1995
t
Chevette de la Mer.
2
6b
More great rock in the pocketed groove above the initial wall.
FA. Andy Bell 9.5.1998
y
Swimsuit Issue .
1
6c+
The arete is followed direct with some blind palming 'à cheval'
to pass the mid-height bulge.
FA. Pete Oxley 9.5.1998
u
Xistenz.
1
Ω
7a+
A worthwhile climb direct up the wall and arete.
FA. Gavin Symonds 2002
The next two full-height cracks are the trad lines of
Razor
Laugh, E1 5b
and
Hell Razor, E3 5c
.
i
Space Shanty .
2
Ω
6b
Fine and varied climbing tackling the shallow groove on the left
of the buttress.
FA. Chris Parker, Pete Oxley 23.5.1997
o
Astra Blaze.
2
6c
A sustained and well-positioned climb direct up the arete.
FA. Pete Oxley 23.5.1997
p a s
d f
u
i o
177
Azymuth Area 
Coastguard South
Azymuth Area
The final batch of routes on Coastguard South is on a
superb steep buttress.
Approach and Tides (see page 166) -
Approach as for
the Quick as Rainbows Area, and continue along the
platform. This area is only accessible for 2 to 3 hours at
low tide.
Project
RF%C
20 min