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Swanage Lulworth Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Coastguard N
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse
CheyneWeare
Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship Blacknor FS
o
Vampire Killers.
1
tΩ
7b
Another pumper with a delicate yet powerful scoop high up.
Good climbing, but it can be dirty.
FA. Pete Oxley 23.5.1997
p
The Lost Buoys .
1
fpsΩ
7c+
A 7a first half leads to desperate crimping up the leaning rib to
reach an easier crack to finish. Needs cool conditions.
FA. Pete Oxley 14.9.1997
a
No Survivors.
stΩ
7b+
Worthwhile climbing which is spoilt by a rest at half-height. Can
get dusty at the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 15.9.96
s
A Meeting of Minds .
ptΩ
7a+
A massive roof test-piece at the bottom makes this one an
unusual outing. A big half-height rest is the reward.
FA. Pete Oxley 15.9.1996
d
Lip Service.
1
pΩ
7a
Great rock and a swing left on the lip of the roof provide the fun.
FA. Pete Oxley, Mark Higgs 15.9.1996
f
Bermuda Triangle .
2
pΩ
6c
Start as for the last route, but climb straight over the bulge and
up the lovely grey slab. Super climbing on great rock.
FA. Pete Oxley, M.Higgs (both led) 8.9.1996
g
A Bird in the Hand.
fΩ
7a+
A crimpy lower wall leads to an easy upper slab. A bit unbal-
anced, but great rock.
FA. Pete Oxley 14.9.1996
h
Hasta La Vista.
1
ptΩ
6b+
A fine steep start leads to a good slabby finish, but unfortunately
it is spoilt by the big ledge in between.
FA. Gary Gibson 4.5.2003
The chimney on the right is the trad line
Lucky Dip, HS
. To the
chimney's right the disjointed crack-line in the wall is
What
Gives My Son, E3 5c
.
e
Wavewatch.
1
tΩ
7b
Climb the straightforward wall to a final steepening. A hard
sequence gains the lower-off.
FA. Gary Gibson 9.5.2002
r
Full Fathom Five.
2
stΩ
7b
The steady lower wall gains a difficult and bouldery finish.
FA. Pete Oxley 13.4.1991
t
Bad Moon Rising.
3
sΩ
7a
An impressive pitch up the blunt arete which gets harder as you
get higher. Can be dusty and the first bolt is high.
FA. Pete Oxley 12.4.1991
y
A Ship Load of Moonies .
2
Ω
6c+
A fine pitch moving right from the start of
Bad Moon Rising
and
finding a surprisingly easy way up this steep wall.
FA. Gary Gibson 15.9.2002
u
Dead by Sunset.
1
stΩ
7b
Very sustained climbing which overhangs all the way. There is a
difficult step left onto a shelf near the bottom.
FA. Pete Oxley 28.9.1996
i
Witchdoctor. . . . . .
1
hsΩ
7b
A route of two sections, pumpy low down and a technical
headwall. At present it is a bold lead and deserves E6.
FA. Dave Pickford 3.5.1998
a s
d
f
g
h
er
t
y
u i o p
175
Bad Moon Rising Area
Coastguard South
Bad Moon Rising Area
Lots of long, sustained wall climbs and some mean roofs
are the main ingredients of this section of crag.
Tides -
The platform below is covered for a few hours at
high tide.
Approach (see page 166) -
Continue along the wave-
washed platform.
23m
RF%
18 min