Basic HTML Version
5
Via Vita .
1
tΩ
E1 5c
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space is the highlight.
Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
Photo on page 263
.
1)
4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of
Medusa
to the shattered
wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped
stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't
want it to be; out into space.
2)
5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and
up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with
difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild.
The Sinister Finish, E1 5b -
From the small ledge it is also
possible to head left to a crack. Even more exposed.
FA. John Loy, Dave Mellor (1pt) 1960
6
Via Vita Direct.
2
tfΩ
E2 6a
The striking overhanging groove high on the crag leads from
the stance on
Medusa
straight up to the crux of the normal
route, via some fierce finger-jamming. Short and sharp though
fortunately very well protected.
FA. Chris Jackson 1976
The next climbs all share a belay on the terrace at half-height,
below the prominent upper scoop. They all have some loose
rock; helmets and a little care are sensible precautions.
7
Mealy Bugs.
2
lΩ
VS 4c
1)
4c, 20m. Climb the shallow groove with a wide crack just
right of the tree at the foot of the face - steeper than it looks
- then as it fades trend right to a belay and good stance on the
terrace.
Photo on page 263
.
2)
4c, 25m. Follow the slabby left wall of the open groove then
trend up left again up the loose and grassy scoop above. Finish
up the fine but short-lived jamming crack high on the left.
FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 1960
8
Mealystopheles.
1
tΩ
VS 5a
1)
5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the
buttress and climb this and enter the awkward left-facing groove
above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2)
4c, 24m. Follow
Mealy Bugs
, but once in the scoop, traverse
round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there.
This is awkward to start but soon eases.
FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965
9
Bullets.
1
sΩ
HVS 5b
Forges a very direct line up the face, offering some good
climbing and a fine finish. Start at the toe of the buttress.
1)
5a, 22m. From the lowest point of the buttress, climb into and
up a shallow groove that leads to the break. Move left via a thin
flake, then climb the rounded arete to a stance on the terrace.
2)
5b, 22m. Climb the arete to a bulge, and pull over this to
reach a wide crack and a well-positioned finish.
FA. Gary Gibson 1980
0
Mephistopheles.
2
slΩ
E1 5b
A good climb that starts just left of the toe of the buttress, below
an evil-looking hanging flake.
1)
5a, 22m. Climb a groove, then move right past the wedged
flake with care. Continue awkwardly up the thin crack until tricky
moves right gain the belay.
2)
5b, 24m. Climb the crack above the stance to steeper rock,
then pull through the bulges to join the wide crack that forms
the final section of the upper pitch of
Mealystopheles
. Steep.
FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock (1pt) 1964
1
Solitaire.
Ω
HS 4b
The short crack in the face to the left of
Conclusor
. Tree belay,
scramble off left. Unremarkable and also unpolished.
FA. John Loy (solo - who would have guessed?) 1960
2
Conclusor.
4
rΩ
HVS 5a
A fine route with good climbing and a reachy couple of moves
just before easy ground is gained. The best route on the crag -
possibly. Make sure to take a decent sized rack especially if you
intend to do it as a single pitch. Start under the soaring groove.
1) 4c 12m.
Follow the small groove to a stance on the ledge.
2) 5a, 30m.
Climb the well-defined groove-line running up the
left side of the main face.
FA. Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1964
The rock to the right was once climbed by the hellish
Hades
,
though it has largely disappeared under vegetation.
3
Delusor .
1
Ω
HVS 5a
1)
5a, 12m. Make a hard (5b?) first move to gain a left-slanting
crack/ramp-line then continue to a grassy landing onto a stance
under a bulge.
Original Start, VS 4c
- Start up
Conclusor
then traverse
diagonally right to the stance. Very scruffy now, but it avoids
that first move.
2)
4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and
climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall,
to join and finish up the final section of
Medusa
.
FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 1960
4
Medusa .
3
lΩ
VS 4b
The original classic has become polished over the years. It is
still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from
a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing
left of the toe of the buttress.
1)
4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a
short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step
out right and belay left of a large pinnacle.
2)
4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the
shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a
superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the
ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass.
FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 1960
261
Raven's Buttress
Ravensdale
Raven's Buttress
The main event at Ravensdale is the superb barrel-
shaped buttress that juts out towards the cottages and
parking place far below. The situations on the cliff are as
impressive as might be expected, with superb views out
to the west and the cliff catching the evening sun full on.
The downside is the fact that some of the best routes
have become very polished over the years and care
with the rock is required over much of the cliff. Some
of the less edifying experiences here are returning to
well-deserved obscurity.
Belays -
Belays at the top are difficult to find. There are a
couple of stakes, well-buried in the grassy cliff top, but on
many of the routes you will need to use your ingenuity.
Descent -
Walk right (looking in) to reach the descent gully.
Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff
Ravensdale
Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U.
Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill
Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney
Southeast Southwest
North