Basic HTML Version
g
Sneck.
lΩ
HVS 5b
Climb the wall or the flake to the left (harder) to the bulges.
Move left and pull through into the base of the angular groove.
Up this and the floral wall above to finish right of the overhang.
h
The Wick .
lΩ
VS 4b
The long, angular groove on the right passes a substantial tree
at 10m. Exit rightwards up near vertical meadows. A bit (or
maybe a lot) of traffic might clean up the grass and enable the
reinstatement of the route's lost star.
FA. John Loy, M.Walsh, G.Armstrong 1969
20m to the right is a prominent, thin crack that is also worth
seeking out.
j
Rock Biter.
1
fΩ
HVS 5a
Nice, well-protected climbing up the thin cracks 10m left of the
next descent gully starting from a grassy ledge.
FA. Chris Jackson, D.Sant 1978
p
Cut Loose or Fly .
1
fΩ
E3 5c
Climb the crack and wall on the right, avoiding the urge to bridge
into the groove on the left.
FA. Phil Burke, Keith Myhill 1978
a
Wilt.
2
ftΩ
E5 6b
Start up the crack of
Cut Loose or Fly
, then, from good holds,
traverse right and climb the desperately faint crack.
FA. Ron Fawcett 1982
s
Pagan Man.
1
tΩ
E5 6b
Follow the technical scoop above the
Wilt
traverse, then the
bulge above to easy ground.
FA. Johnny Dawes, Tony Kartawick 1984
d
The Wilt Alternative.
1
ptΩ
E5 6c
A fierce direct start to the faint crack; a peg and a thread protect
the hardest moves.
FA. Quentin Fisher 1985
The wide wall to the right is rather loose and vegetated, though
there is a trio of grooves and a neat finger crack worth seeking
out, if you have done everything else. There are other routes on
the wall, but they never get done.
f
Malpossessed.
1
sΩ
HVS 5b
The groove right of the arete is approached by trending right-
wards up the lower wall to the bulges. Pull up into the groove on
the right-hand side of the block overhang then move left into its
continuation and finish up this.
FA. Ernie Marshall, John Loy (2 pegs) 1968
FFA. Ken Myhill, Terry King 1970
o
f g
h
j
259
Malpossessed
Ravensdale
Malpossessed
Between the delights of the Flying Buttress Area and
the main Raven's Buttress, is a wide wall with over 20
recorded routes. Sadly, the amount of loose rock and
vegetation here means that most of them never get done.
The best four lines are described in the hope that a bit of
traffic will help clean them up.
Approach (also see page 254) -
Walk left from under
the Main Buttress and cross a fence. The routes are just
beyond a steep descent gully.
Belays -
Belays at the top are difficult to find, many
climbers simply get well back and dig their heels in.
Descent -
The gully to the right gives a scrambly
descent. It is steep, care needed, especially if it is at all
damp. You can also abseil or use the walking descents at
either end of the crag.
Descent
scramble -
awkward
18m
18m
20m
Abseil
descent
Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff
Ravensdale
Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U.
Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill
Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney
Southeast Southwest
North