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A fine tall west-facing buttress that rises above the attractive
wooded valley of Cressbrook Dale and has a good set of
middle-grade climbs. The main face is Raven's Buttress,
rising directly above the cottages, this has several fine climbs
and a fair smattering of loose rock and ivy. For something
less intimidating there is a good cluster of shorter climbs
surrounding the impressive natural arch of the Flying
Buttress Area over to the left. Currently most of the worthwhile routes are reasonably clean and
solid, although there may still be some loose rock, and some of the holds are very polished.
Encroaching vegetation is an ever-present
problem.
Approach
Also see map on page 211
The cliff is located in Cressbrook Dale. From the
B6465 Ashford in the Water to Wardlow road,
take either of two lanes down into Monsal Dale,
one of which starts by the Monsal Head pub - a
recommendable spot. Once in the dale, pass the
entrance to Water-cum-Jolly, and keep right up
the hill. After about 500m, a minor road on the
right leads down to cottages below the crag, with
parking space for about eight cars. If the parking
is full, leave your car back down at the mill. From
the right-hand side of the parking, a track leads
down to the river (often dry) and up the steep
wooded bank to the base of the cliff.
Conditions
The crag faces west, and catches the afternoon sun. It does not suffer much from seepage, but
the larger Raven's Buttress gets any wind going.
Access
The crag is managed by English Nature as part of a National Nature Reserve. They ask that
climbers approach the crag on the marked concessionary path from the parking by the cottages,
and only climb on the crags covered in this guide. Additionally, English Nature may impose restric-
tions to safeguard nesting birds. These are indicated by signs on the approach path and on the
BMC website. Please do not ignore these.
254
Ravensdale
Raven's Buttress
p.260
p.259
Malpossessed
p.256
Beachcomber
p.256
Flying Buttress
Descent
Descent
Descent
Cressbrook
About 400m
Cottages
Ravensdale
Water-cum-Jolly
p.226
GPS
53.25962
-1.74367
No
star
1
2
3
Mod to S
5 -
-
-
HS to HVS
9 16 8 2
E1 to E3
3 16 7 1
E4 and up
2 17 19 11
North
Southwest
Southeast
Stoney
Horseshoe Smalldale Harpur Hill
Lovers' Leap Beerhouse
Craig-y-Biceps
Staden Q Chee Dale U.
Che Dale L.
Blackwell D.
Raven Tor
Water-c.-Jolly
Ravensdale
Aldery Cliff Taddington Rheinstor