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Gear
For the traditional routes on Peak Limestone a good sized rack with plenty of small and medium
wires is required. A few cams should be carried but be wary of trusting them the same way you
might trust a placement on gritstone since it is not unknown for them to strip out of smooth-sided
limestone cracks when loaded. Around a dozen quick-draws will suffice for most routes and double
50m ropes (or 60m for High Tor) are essential. A selection of threads of various lengths and thick-
nesses will be found useful on many climbs for tying off old pegs, threading pockets and saplings,
and extending runners.
For sport routes a single rope is the norm and, apart for a few exceptions, a 60m rope plus 12
quick-draws will be adequate. A rope sheet to keep the rope clean and a clip-stick to clip high 1st
bolts may also be found useful.
Bolting
The bolting history of the Peak area is the longest in Britain
with many of the ethical debates being fought out here in the
70s and 80s. This has resulted in a variety of different bolts
being littered across the crags varying in quality from solid to
downright dangerous. Most of the quarries now have relatively
good bolts and many of the old bolts on the harder crags have
been replaced in recent years. Be wary of anything that looks
like the photo to the right and support the local bolt funds each
time you go climbing.
Bolt Funds in the Peak Area
The
Peak Bolt Fund
was set up in 2008 by local climbers who wanted to re-equip existing routes
mainly on the old natural crags like Raven Tor and the Chee Dale Cornice. A lot of work has been
done on these crags but there is still much to do.
The second bolt fund for the Peak limestone area is the
Gary Gibson Bolt Fund
. Gary has bolted
thousands of routes across the country and is responsible for the majority of the bolting in the
Peak quarries. Although Gary has established many new routes he also puts in a huge amount of
effort in rebolting older climbs.
How can I help?
The main way everyone can help is by making a donation. The simple gesture of a £10 online
donation each time you go clipping bolts in the Peak can go a long way to providing the neces-
sary funding. If you want to get more involved then there is always a need for volunteers to help
with the hard work. Bolting is a difficult and time-consuming activity. If you are an experienced
climber, or have a background in rope access, you could be a real asset to the Peak Bolt Fund.
If you wish to place some bolts yourself, please contact either the BMC or the Peak Bolt Fund
first since they will be able to advise on bolting technique. It is important that all new bolts placed
should be proper stainless steel bolts at least 10mm in diameter. For more information have a look
at the BMC Better Bolts Campaign -
www.thebmc.co.uk
To donate to the
Peak Bolt Fund
or the
Gary Gibson Bolt Fund
go to
www.ukboltfund.org
An old High Tor Bolt. Photo: Graham Hoey
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Peak Limestone Climbing
Gear and Bolting
S u p p o r t l o c a l b o l t i n g v o l u n t e e r s