Basic HTML Version
Access
The limestone crags of the Peak District are
managed by a variety of different land owners
and conservation groups all of whom are
keen to protect their own part of the natural
landscape. This often brings them into conflict
with climbers particularly over issues such as
crag approach paths and nesting birds. The
main issues in the Peak have been in Chee
Dale and Water-cum-Jolly, and at some of the
smaller crags like Ravensdale and Willersley. In
most cases patient negotiating by members of
the BMC Peak Area Committee have resulted
in satisfactory solutions which enable climbing
to continue, but sometimes with restrictions.
All the specific details are given with the crag
introductions.
Please familiarise yourself with
this information before climbing.
There are also some quarries described which
have no formal access agreement.
Climbing
has taken place in these quarries over the
years, but it should be noted that their
inclusion in this book doesn't imply that you
have a right of access to climb on the crag.
Good Practice Points for Crag Development and Maintenance
The following Good Practice Points for new routing, crag re-development, bolting and route
cleaning have been suggested as a way of avoiding conflict. Please read them carefully especially
if you are new routing or considering (re)placing any bolts.
1)
Find out if the area intended for development or maintenance is protected for geological or
biological reasons, or because of breeding birds.
2)
Some cliffs may be in SSSIs (Sites of Special Scientific Interest). Drilling and vegetation-
stripping on SSSIs will require consent from the land owner or the land manager. If you are
unsure, make a note of as many of the details as possible - for example grid reference, nearest
village. For all areas contact the local BMC Area Representatives (see below).
3)
Adhere strictly to any bans or restrictions on drilling. If in any doubt seek advice from the BMC
Access Officer or local Area Representative (see below).
4)
If you encounter access problems when at a crag, DO NOT be confrontational, leave the crag
politely and inform the local BMC Area Representatives (see below).
5)
Ensure safe practice when cleaning or drilling particularly with respect to members of the public
who may be below. Try to be discrete and don't drill at busy times and weekends.
6)
Check on local ethical situation and consensus before bolting or replacing gear.
7)
Avoid leaving krabs and threads on routes while working them.
British Mountaineering Council
British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB.
Tel: 0870 010 4878 Fax: 0161 445 4500. Web:
www.thebmc.co.uk
Email:
The BMC is the official body representing climbers in Britain. If you have problems regarding
access to any of the areas in this book, then get in touch with the BMC Access Officer at the
address above.
A crowded Ravensdale. Photo: Chris Craggs
26
Introduction
Peak Limestone Climbing
Access