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The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland
and possess a wealth of excellent routes set in a remote and
beautiful environment. Unlike much of the rest of the west
coast of Portland, the Coastguard Cliffs have an authentic
sea-cliff feel about them, with all that this entails - tidal
approaches, slippery boulders and the constant
accompaniment of the sea close by.
Coastguard North is best known for its collection
of steep, powerful and hard climbs, many in
the high 7s. It is also the setting for Portland's
hardest route -
Vespasian
at 8b. Coastguard
South offers more in the mid-grades, including
the very popular Xavier's Wall Area - home to
a great spread of mid-grade routes. The rock
at both the North and South Cliffs is some of
the best on the Isle, and is furnished with some
fantastic flowstone-sheets.
Approach
Also see map on page 53
Drive to the southern end of the Isle and park
at the Portland Bill car park (fee). Walk back up
the road, and, just after the Pulpit Inn, take a
minor road on the left. As the road starts to level
out, just before the Coastwatch lookout, go left
and down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then
drop down a steep and precarious path onto
a promontory (rope often in place - take care).
The path gains the boulder beach below the
right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach
Coastguard South, continue down the boulder
beach then double back left and scramble over
huge boulders to a level platform beyond.
Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse CheyneWeare Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship
Blacknor FS
Coastguard N
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166
The Coastguard Cliffs
The Coastwatch lookout (left) directly above the descent to the Coastguard Cliffs.
No
star
1
2
3
up to 4+
-
-
-
-
5+ to 6a+
-
1 6 1
6b to 7a
1 11 17 5
7a+ and up
5 23 30 7
White Hole
p.178
Coastguard North
p.168
Coastguard South
p.172
Pulpit Inn
GPS
50.515705
-2.456430
Lighthouse Cliffs
p.186
Pulpit Rock
No climbing
in sanctuary
zone
Cafe
About 300m
MOD
Coastguard North
p.168
Coastguard South
p.172
Coastwatch
lookout
Private parking
area
See notes
on slope in
approach
details
Collection of
huge boulders