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Swanage Lulworth Portland
Approach Sun Tides Abseil Multi-
pitch
Restric
tions
Summary
Page
F
12 to 15 min
R
C
One of the best and most popular areas with
some spectacular flowstone formations. Long
routes, a good grade spread and easy access
make this a must-visit sector.
62
F
12 to 20 min
U
Good long routes and the first spot to get the
morning sun on the west coast. It can be dusty
at times, although the well-travelled lines are all
clean.
74
G
8 to 12 min
R
An extensive area with some of the longest mid-
grade routes on Portland. There is also a good
set of easier climbs. It is close to the descent path
and on the path to other sections of Blacknor.
88
G
15 to 20 min
}
Located down by the sea are a number of huge
boulders that are home to some fine lower-grade
sport climbs. The rock and setting are superb. The
descent needs care.
96
G
10 min
R
A superb set of face climbs on fine rock. A great
place for technical routes in the 6s and 7s. The
crux sections are usually short and intense. Easy
and quick access.
102
G
10 min
R
An appealing wall with excellent rock and many
routes. Most of the routes are technical and
fingery. The base of the crag is a very pleasant
spot. A fine quick-tick crag with easy access.
114
G
10 to 14 min
R
In contrast to its neighbour, the Back Cliff has
some long stamina pitches in the mid-to-high
grades. Nearby are some small venues with lots
of popular easier lines.
122
G
10 to 20 min
R
A series of fine walls perched above vegetated
slopes that gradually trail down to the boulder
beach. Lots of routes to go at in the mid-to-hard
grades. The approaches can be tough going.
136
G
15 to 20 min
R
%
C
The best of the Wallsend cliffs, including one of
the finest walls on Portland. Long and pumpy
routes in the mid-to-high grades. A longish
approach walk and slightly tidal access.
150
F
12 to 20 min
R
%
C
The north section of the cliff has magnificent
harder lines, whilst to the south the walls are
plastered with lots of mid-grade classics. The
southern end is tidal.
168
F
5 min
U
%
J
Shorter routes and deep water solos near
Portland Bill. Easy to reach, though abseil
approaches are needed for most routes.
178
A
5 to 15 min
W%
J
An atmospheric series of caves and walls. Huge
roof-climbs plus some good deep water solos
both hard and easy. Condition dependant and
requires the highest of tides for the DWSs.
186
F
2 to 15 min
U
%
J C
A collection of cliffs with great variety. The best
has hard and steep sport routes, but the others
have popular low-to-mid grade lines. Sheltered
and gets the sun from first thing.
196
F
5 to 13 min
U
Compact rock and some fine tough and technical
climbs on one of Portland's most popular cliffs.
Many easier sport routes and it is the best place
for morning sun or shelter from the wind.
226
Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are tidal / require and abseil / are multi-pitch / are restricted