Basic HTML Version
Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
36
Cliff rescue practice at Hedbury Quarry, Swanage.
The Roped Climbing Safety Checklist
1) Wear a helmet -
Because of the looseness of the rock and the unstable finishing slopes,
helmets are very strongly recommended, particularly at Swanage.
2) Take care on the cliff top -
When wet the grass and mud can be lethally slippery. This is
also the case after long dry spells when the dry grass is frictionless.
3) Tie a knot in your rope -
Take great care when lowering off and always have a knot tied in
the dead end of the rope. Tip - get into the habit of tying both ends of your rope to your rope
bag each time you pack it away.
4) Take an abseil rope with you -
For crags requiring an abseil approach, do not assume
that it is possible to abseil in on ropes you wish to use for climbing since frequently the abseil
rope forms an integral part of the cliff-top belay.
5) Take Prusik loops -
In most areas Prusik loops are essential since there is not always an
easy escape route.
6) Watch your top-outs -
Many of the Swanage trad routes finish on unstable earth and
grass slopes that are often the most serious section of a climb. Place plenty of protection on
the last sections of good rock and, if at all possible, consider locating the top of the climb
prior to descending and fixing a short rope down the finishing slope.
7) Be careful when moving along the crag base -
When above deep water, carry the rack
and rope in a manner whereby they can be easily and quickly jettisoned. If you are hit by a
big wave with them on you will sink VERY quickly if you are washed out of your depth.
8) Drop your grade -
Remember that Swanage, and the Boulder Ruckle in particular, is a
big and serious cliff. Until familiar with the place, it is highly recommended that you drop your
leading grade by at least 2 notches when attempting a route there. Additionally, DON'T expect
to instantly lead the equivalent trad grade as your best sport grade effort on a bolted route,
especially if that bolted route was at a climbing wall!
9) Prepare to get hot -
In summer many of the crags can be unbelievably hot so take lots of
water, shades, a hat, and slap on the sun screen.
Dorset Climbing
Safety