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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Sport Climbing
For the sport routes a single rope of 60m is advised since there are
several areas on the east and west coast of Portland with routes close to
30m in length. It is possible to climb on many other areas with a shorter
rope but please take special care and, no matter what length of rope you
have, ALWAYS tie a knot in the dead end and stand close to the face
when lowering off. For a number of the big lines at Blackers Hole a longer
rope is necessary.
A rack of fourteen quickdraws is enough for any route on Portland,
however some lines at Swanage require more, most notably once again at
Blackers Hole. Certain sport routes require an abseil approach or are tidal
as at White Hole, Coastguard South and The Promenade - again this is
clearly indicated with the crag information and or route descriptions.
Trad Climbing
Double 50m ropes are required for virtually all the traditional climbs in
this guidebook. In addition, a 50m abseil rope is essential for many of the
crags at Swanage. Often these abseils are free-hanging so make sure a
thick rope is used. Take a good selection of slings for belays and to help
avoid rope drag from the ever-present overhangs at Swanage. For the big
traditional routes take two sets of wires and some micro-nuts, plus a good
selection of cams and some larger nuts. Include enough gear to belay
yourself securely at the base of the cliffs (in case of a freak large wave).
Tides
The highest spring tides (new and full moon) have about a 2 to 2.5m
range whilst neap tides (half moons) vary between 1 and 1.5m. Portland
has a double tide, which is not really obvious to the eye but has the effect
of prolonging the time the water level is high or low. Overall the changes
in water level are slow when compared to Cornwall, Devon and South
Wales. The tides advance by about 45 minutes a day and there are two
highs a day some 12-13 hours apart. The flood tide flows to the east and
the ebb to the west which are most apparent in the huge tidal race off of
Portland Bill. At Swanage a knowledge of tides is essential for most of
the cliffs although only a few areas are actually cut off by high water. For
virtually all areas it is worth keeping well away when the sea is moderately
rough or worse.
For sport climbing on Portland a knowledge of the tides is not essential
unless visiting some of the cliffs on the east coast or Coastguard South.
The Portland deep water solos need the highest tides possible so
look for spring tides of around 2m or greater
.
Tide tables can be bought in newsagents and post offices. There are
different tables for Swanage and Portland. A rough guide to tides can also
be gained from the surfing website at
www.magicseaweed.com
. This
gives lots of data on sea swell, tides, wind strength and general weather
conditions - just find a surfing location closest to the cliffs. Because of the
very strong tidal races at Portland and Swanage swimming is not advised.
34
Gear and Safety
Dorset Climbing
Gear and Tides