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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Bolting
The bolting system predominantly used at the sport crags covered
by this book is the U-bolt staple - see right. These are made from
marine-grade stainless steel held in with a special epoxy glue. They
provide inexpensive, corrosion-resistant protection with a lifetime in
excess of 25 years.
When using these staples:
1)
Use high-strength karabiners.
2)
Carry a screwgate or sling to use on bolts which are close to
edges or in uneven rock.
3)
The staples can be lowered off directly or by abseil. When
lowering always thread both belay staples.
4)
Never top-rope or lower-off of a single staple.
5)
Please don't top-rope directly through the lower-off anchors, instead, run your rope through
karabiners to reduce wear and tear.
6)
Always belay close to the rock face with the rope going straight up through the quickdraw clipped
to the first bolt. Belaying a long way from the face puts a heavy outward loading on the bottom bolt
which has caused problems with some bolts in the area. It is also a dangerous practice since both
leader and belayer can get hurt in the event of a fall.
7)
If bolts look suspect please report it to the BMC Southwest Area -
www.thebmc.co.uk/contact
Nearly all of Portland and much of Swanage is now properly geared but there are places, such as
Blackers Hole Quarry and The Promenade, that still need work. Additionally, existing routes need
occasional maintenance and re-gearing.
The Dorset Bolt Fund
The DBF has been set up by a group of committed volunteer climbers with a passion for the
climbing in Dorset. These volunteers raise funds for the purchase of bolts, and then do the hard
work of equipping routes with them. The money raised is solely used for replacing old bolts on
existing routes, in accordance with the Dorset Bolt Agreement.
The kit list for bolting is a big one - high-powered drills, spare batteries and drill bits, the bolts
themselves, plus resin and glue guns for glue-in bolts. Then there is the climbing gear, ropes, pegs
etc. All this adds up to a fairly hefty price tag per route, especially as bolting can trash kit pretty
quickly.
How can I help?
The main way everyone can help is by making a donation. The simple gesture of a £5 online
donation each time you go climbing in Dorset can go a long way to providing the necessary
funding. If you want to get more involved then there is always a need for volunteers to help with the
hard work. Bolting is a difficult and time-consuming activity. If you are an experienced climber, or
have a background in rope access, you could be a real asset to the Dorset Bolt Fund.
For more information about the funding of bolting in Dorset and to donate to the DBF go to
www.ukboltfund.org
or to
www.dorset-climbing.com/dorset_bolt_fund/
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Dorset Climbing
Bolting
S u p p o r t l o c a l b o l t i n g v o l u n t e e r s