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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
As I write this I am still recovering from a
grade 6 two days before Xmas! Getting old is
never easy for a sportsman, however I refer to
another magnitude 6 after-shock that hit the
quake ravaged city of Christchurch in New
Zealand where I now live. So to help bring to
light this eagerly anticipated fourth edition of
the Dorset Rockfax has been a cathartic expe-
rience. It’s been a pleasure that reinforces my
original vision that Dorset is one of the best
and most varied climbing spots in the world.
Mark Glaister, Stephen Horne and Alan
James have done a great job again in
updating the photos in to a new format and
reworking many sections. The guide has fully
matured and grown due to the sheer enthu-
siasm of new routers such as Mick Ward, Rob
Kennard, Steve Taylor, Bob Hickish and many
others. These people must also be thanked for
the continued regearing of old sport climbs. All
those who have contributed to the bolt fund
over the years should receive a high five from
the hordes that now drive to Dorset every
weekend.
I personally wish to remember and thank
the scores of great characters that I climbed
alongside to help develop these cliffs in to
what they are today. In particular the Cook
Clan, Brian Tilley, Martin Crocker, Tim Dunsby,
Nigel Coe, Steve Taylor, Mike Robertson,
Mark Williams, Steve Williams, Jon Williams,
Jon Biddle, Andy Bell, Chris Parker, Jimbo,
Mike Morris, Rob Kennard, Richard White,
Mick Ward, Barry Clarke and many others.
I also wish to thank Dawn and Ivan at the
Sugar Loaf for their warm support of climbers
and the best cream teas available. Last but
not least all my love again to Jan Rostron for
20 years together in 2012, out and about on
the cliffs.
To quote the route name -
Not Forgotten, No
Fade Away
- I’ll be back to visit soon and ‘Old
Painless’ is still oiled and primed down under!
Enjoy edition four.
Pete Oxley, January 2012
Many thanks to all who I have shared a rope
with on the Dorset coast, and to those who
have helped with this guide and the develop-
ment of climbing and climbs in the area,
especially the following: all the Cooks, Bruce
Woodley, Beth Woodley, Brian Wilkinson,
Mike Robertson, Barry Clarke, Steve Taylor,
Mark Williams, Marti Hallett, Andy Long,
Chegs Evans, Rich White, Rob Kennard,
Dan Knight, Christine Forkin, Emma Medara,
Gavin Symonds, Danie Rushmer, Ben
Stokes, Nigel Tuckley, Bev Hull, Al Ashmore,
Dave Pickford, Clare Dyson, Arran Deakin,
Chris Gore, Rob Knight, Jonny Woods, Lee
Proctor, Guy Blackwood, Steve Watt, Ken
Palmer, Rob Sutton, Clarke Alston, Gaz
Fry, Jude Summers, Bruce Walker, Julie
Ashmore, Bob Hickish, Chris Weedon,
Adam Perrett, Sarah Perrett, Mick Ward,
John Leonard, Tom Beaumont, Anna Rayner,
Paul Cox, Sarah Stirling, Dan Wicks, John
Samways, John Warner, Mark Tomlinson,
Dave Henderson, Carrie Hill, Ali Martindale,
Phil Black, Bridget Collier, Neal Heanes,
Helen Heanes, Si Rooms, Kimberley
Waldron, Sarah Ahmed, Jason Ahmed, Sue
Hazel, Daimon Beail.
Thank you also to those who have supplied
the multitude of fantastic action photos -
Keith Sharples, Szymon Dziukiewicz, Paul
Cox, Oli Lyon, Marti Hallett, Tom Beaumont,
Sarah Stirling, Dan Lane, Ben Fordesman,
Mike Robertson, Mike Hutton, Daimon Beail,
Dave Mason.
A huge amount of the information in this
book has come from the Rockfax and
UKC Route Database. I am very grateful to
all those who have contributed, keep the
feedback coming in.
The production of this guidebook has been
a mammoth task. Thanks to Alan James
and Stephen Horne for their skills and input
in helping to produce this book - the 4th
Rockfax to Dorset in 18 years.
Mark Glaister, January 2012
10
Acknowledgments
Dorset
Acknowledgments