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Grades
The routes in this book are graded using the usual sport grade-system, or 'French Grade' as it is
commonly known. This gives an overall impression of the difficulty of the route. The Ariège region in
general has a reputation for rather stiff grading, pretty much across the grades. This isn't as outrageous
as in some areas, perhaps the grades are best described as "good value". The best advice, especially
when moving around between different rock types and climbing styles, is to sample a route a bit below
your normal standard just to ease yourself in to the style of climbing. This is especially true on older slab
pitches. Some of the venues with longer routes, especially Sinsat and the Dent d'Orlu, are best regarded
as bolted mountain routes rather then sport climbs.
Belays and Extensions
Routes are bolted so that an ascent ends when you have clipped the belay, grabbing
chains is not the custom. Multi-pitch routes are graded assuming you are taking each
belay. Some single pitches often have extensions offering a longer and more difficult
route. Most extensions are given extra grades in the route description, and some have
different names. Extensions are not second pitches, and the grade of an extension
assumes you have not rested on the belay, which would make it easier than graded.
They are
indicated on the
topos with lines
going around the lower-off - see
above.
Colour-coding
The routes and pitches are
colour-coded corresponding to a
grade band. This gives a rough
comparison between trad routes
and sport routes. For example, if
you are happy on orange grades
on trad, then you should consider
routes given orange spot sport
grades.
Green Spots
Everything up to 4+
Good for beginners and those
wanting an easy life.
Orange Spots
5 to 6a+ inclusive
General ticking routes for those
with more experience.
Red Spots
6b to 7a inclusive
Routes for the very experienced
and keen climber.
Black Spots
7a+ and above
The hard stuff!
Route Grades
Sport British Trad Grade
(for well-protected routes only)
UIAA USA
Moun t a i n Wa l k s
Ax - l e s -Th e rme s A r e a
S i n s a t A r e a
Au z a t A r e a
N i a u x A r e a
Ca l amè s A r e a
Th e P l a n t a u r e l
35
Grades
Ariège Climbing