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Ropes
The most crucial item of gear is your rope. At the very
least you need a 60m rope but, if you're buying a
new rope for a trip to France, we strongly recommend
getting a 70m rope or longer. Single ropes are now
available in thicknesses previously associated with
half-ropes. Thin ropes are easier to climb with and
lighter, which is good for the hike to the crag and
your luggage allowance on the plane. Thicker ropes
last longer and are better for working projects. For
multi-pitch routes requiring an abseil descent, you may
find that using a pair of half-ropes is preferable or a
triple-rated rope which can be used both single and
double. Alternatively, if you have a 100m single rope,
you can make all the abseils and have the convenience
of leading on a single rope, though long ropes are noto-
rious for twisting and tangling at the most inconvenient
of times.
Route Lengths and Lowering Off
The photo-topos have approximate heights, indicated
next to some lower-offs.
These are guideline heights
only
. It is important to remember that crag bases
often slope, and people stand in different places when
belaying. Also, manufacturer figures for rope lengths
vary and some ropes have had worn sections chopped
off the ends in the past. Do you really know exactly how
long your rope is? The golden rule is always tie a knot
in the end of the rope to prevent dropping a climber
when lowering off.
Other Gear
Trad Gear -
Only a few routes in this guidebook require
more than a single rope and a set of quickdraws - 14
quickdraws is plenty for all but the longest of pitches.
For the belays on multi-pitch routes, a couple of screw-
gate carabiners and a sling each is a good idea. The
few routes which need gear are denoted with the
n
symbol. For some of these you just need a small rack
to supplement the fixed gear, on few others you need a
more substantial rack. Check the route descriptions for
more detail.
Belay Device -
Make sure your belay device is suitable
for your rope: too grabbing and you'll be cursing it each
time you pay out rope, too slick and you may struggle
to hold your partner. A belay device that you are happy
to abseil on is also a good idea if you are considering
longer routes.
Beyond these essentials, you may find tape useful for
bandaging your fingers if the prickly rock starts to take
its toll. For multi-pitch routes, a small sack with a water
bladder, a long-sleeve shirt and a sun hat are good
ideas. A good pair of approach shoes is also worth
packing, as some of the crags are a bit of a walk from
the parking spots.
Th e P l a n t a u r e l
Ca l amè s A r e a
N i a u x A r e a
Au z a t A r e a
S i n s a t A r e a
Ax - l e s -Th e rme s A r e a
Moun t a i n
Wa l k s
34
Ariège Climbing
Ropes, Route Lengths and Gear
Alan James lowering-off at Auzat. Photo: Mick Ryan