UKC

Dear UKC,

I've just learnt to lead indoors and I'm keen to progress into the outdoor scene. What are the go-to guidebooks for sport climbing in the UK? I'm not super into bouldering anymore since moving to ropes but a book that had both would be acceptable. Of course I'm not really interested in trad right now as I want to gain experience in sport first and save money/find buddies before even contemplating trad (and probably going on an outdoor course).

I currently live in Leeds, but open to climbing Peaks, Dales, and next year will be in Cumbria. 

I guess a semi-question is also, I understand sport climbing to be limited in the UK, but where is the "best" place for it?

Ta in advance!

Hi

The rockfax app is a good option. Otherwise Northern & Peak Limestone guidebooks, as well as using the UKC logbook to figure out which line of bolts is which.

I'd really say don't discount trad, it's a very fun and rewarding way to learn climbing. The early experiences I had following and then leading low grade routes have been amongst the most fun and memorable climbing experiences I've had.

"best" is totally subjective but Malham Cove would be a reasonable suggestion as the UK's best sport climbing venue. One to aspire to.. 

As others have said, Northern and Peak Limestone are great. Plenty of good sport crags in the Peak.

Cumbria has some sport - some quarries and St Bees, but it’s really more of a trad area.

Further afield Dorset and in particular Portland are big areas for Sport. As is north Wales along the A55 and the slate quarries south of there. 

It’s worth saying that although you’ve learnt to lead indoors, there’s a couple of bits and bobs that you don’t learn from indoor leading (re threads being a big one) that you’ll need to learn to be safe outdoors, so it’s worth buddying up with someone experienced at first, or paying a guide to (excuse the pun) show you the ropes. A day or so ought to cover it.

Have fun! 

If you're going to go to different areas, almost certainly subscribing to the Rockfax app will work out the cheapest, then you'll have access to topos to sport climbing across the UK. 

And it the Peak not the Peaks. This is more important than you can possibly imagine. 😉

This might help:

https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/european-rock-climbing-guidebooks...
 

And perhaps this:

https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/sport-climbing-in-england-and-wal...

Good luck!

And it's it's not it. This is also crucial!

Thanks James,

I'll look into rockfax - part of me LOVES a paper book tho so might go for a combo!

I'd also love to get into trad one day, but right now I can't afford a rack and I don't tend to do things by halves, I'd like to go on a sport course, get good at leading sport, and then progress into trad I reckon, but I'll see how I go.

I've heard about Malham, the instructor at Big Depot Leeds was particularly raving about it haha

Cheers

Thanks Greg,

I think my next move is to practise more indoor with some buddies and then go on an outdoor sport course for sure - 1-2 days. Especially as it would be my first experience outdoor climbing (I haven't even bouldered outdoors)

Cheers again

Thank you Toby,

I do want to agree with you about the Peak, but I'll have to convince everyone I speak to from now on so... I've got my work cut out

Will look into the app

nice, one further recommendation - leeds mountaineering club are a friendly bunch open to beginners, they organize both trad and sport climbing trips

Awesome. Sounds like a good plan to me & you're gonna love the transition to outdoors!