WATER-CUM-JOLLY


The River Wye continues from Chee Dale to cut another less-imposing dale characterised by sweeping river bends below some compact buttresses of rock. In many ways Water-cum-Jolly lives in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour - the routes are shorter, the buttresses smaller, and the setting less dramatic but no less picturesque. This is the place for the connoisseur of Peak Limestone to seek out forgotten gems on the Upper Circle or on Central Buttress, do battle with technical wall climbs at Rubicon, or launch themselves across the steepening wave of the Cornice. In summer, each of the buttresses stands in isolation from the others, sheltered by the trees and, with the exception of Rubicon Wall, your only companions are likely to be one or two other climbers and then only on busy weekends. From the climber's point of view, some of WCJ is suffering from neglect. Routes on isolated sections of the Upper Circle, Moat Buttress and Central Buttress see few ascents these days. Ivy has taken over on certain sections and the rock has returned to a natural but loose and unpredictable state. It is perhaps time that we reassessed the climbing on some of these locations before they become forgotten altogether.

Routes

167 trad routes (D...?)
90 sport routes (?...?)
3 boulder problems (?...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Vision Buttress
Vision Buttress is the first crag encountered on the Litton Mill approach and offers two hard...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

0 mins

228
Jackdaw Point
A neglected buttress with a neat little set of mid-grade routes. Most of the gear is good, but...
15
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

sheltered
229
Upper Circle
The ring of cliffs along the northern slopes of the dale continues from Jackdaw Point, though most...
21
Trad
Morning sun
Level

20 mins

sheltered
230
Ping Pong Area
This area has two isolated buttresses with a few quality routes between them. Mandrake Buttress is...
23
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

sheltered
232
Lammergeyer Buttress
This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be...
16
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

12 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
234
Rubicon Left
The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon...
40
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
236
Rubicon Right
The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers...
18
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
240
Moat Buttress
Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to...
27
Trad
Evening sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
242
Crunch Buttress
The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard...
16
Trad
Evening sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
244
The Cornice
The second of the Peak's Cornices is in the form of a single crashing wave of rock which befits its...
30
Trad
No sun
Up and down

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
246
Witchcraft Wall
A small wall, upstream from the Cornice, with a few routes including one worthwhile sport route.
4
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

20 mins

sheltered
-
Central Buttress
The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst...
48
Trad
Evening sun
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
250
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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

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