WATER-CUM-JOLLY


The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller's Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Routes

160 boulder problems (Diff...E7)
122 winter routes (6b...8c+)
3 ice routes (V3...V9)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Jackdaw Point
A neglected buttress with a neat little set of mid-grade routes. Most of the gear is good, but...
13
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Upper Circle
The ring of cliffs along the northern slopes of the dale continues from Jackdaw Point, though most...
15
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Ping Pong Area
This area has two isolated buttresses with a few quality routes between them. Mandrake Buttress is...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

sheltered
Lammergeyer Buttress
This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be...
14
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

12 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Rubicon Left
The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon...
35
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Rubicon Right
The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers...
15
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Moat Buttress
Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to...
23
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Majorca Crunch Buttress
The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard...
22
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
The Cornice
The second of the Peak's Cornices is in the form of a single crashing wave of rock which befits its...
23
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Central Buttress
The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst...
59
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
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