Mention Orgon to climbers who are reasonably familiar with French climbing and most will assume you are referring to Orgon Canal - a super-steep collection of routes, some of which were once amongst the hardest in the world. This is to mis-judge Orgon almost entirely, as the great majority of the climbing here consists of low- to mid-grade routes on largely slabby or vertical rock. There are, of course, steeper sections, like the Canal, but really there is something for everyone from grade 3 to grade 9. The facts that there is a campsite right in the middle of the place, and that it is so easy to get to, even without a car, make it surprising that it is not more popular than it is.
Routes
|
331 sport routes (3+...9a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Petit Cirque A small but pleasant amphitheatre of rock. Take care at the base as a slip could lead to a rapid... |
27 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy | 332 |
| Pte Sikamole A great wall with technical routes up a shield of excellent rock. |
18 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Uphill 14 mins |
Windy | 334 |
| Pointe de la Découverte A collection of short routes in a fine position. |
12 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy | 336 |
| Babylone No description as yet. |
11 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 338 |
| Papy No description as yet. |
13 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 6 mins |
Windy | 339 |
| Acteur's Studio A short crag, but the routes can pack a lot in. |
23 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy | 340 |
| Sentinel and Pilier Nord The Sentinel is an impressive free-standing rock. Behind it is Pilier Nord, which only has a few... |
15 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 12 mins |
Windy | 342 |
| Le Grand Cirque A superb crag, one of the best at Orgon with soaring lines up immaculate rock. |
20 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 12 mins |
Windy | 344 |
| Secteur du Haut Another superb piece of rock with plenty to go at. |
12 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy | 345 |
| C'est pas du Pan An isolated sector consisting of a superb steep slab, it is well worth the effort of the approach... |
6 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 15 mins |
Windy | 346 |
| Secteur Oublié and La Grotte The furthest crag at Orgon has a rather specialised offering - just three hard routes. Follow the... |
5 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Up and down 20 mins |
Windy | 347 |
| Pilier Sud and Les Grottes Pilier Sud has a couple of two-pitch routes in fine positions, Les Grottes has a mix of excellent... |
16 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 349 |
| Brèche Sud and Mur du Six A fine collection of routes, invariably on superb rock; a good place to start. |
43 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 350 |
| Mur Notre-Dame The first crag you reach when approaching from above. The routes on the right-hand side are all... |
22 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 2 mins |
Windy | 352 |
| Dalle du Camping Technical routes up some very good rock, unfortunately the approach is a bit of a pain - it is... |
13 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 15 mins |
Windy | 353 |
| La Quatième Dimension No description as yet. |
4 | Sport |
Early morning sun |
Roadside 0 mins |
Windy | 355 |
| Canalissime Though chipped, glued and polished, the routes at the left end of the Canal sector take on an... |
23 | Sport |
Morning sun |
Roadside 0 mins |
Windy | 357 |
| Bronx For a while, this sector held some of the hardest routes in the world, and made Orgon a... |
20 | Sport |
Early morning sun |
Roadside 0 mins |
Windy | 360 |
| Tchao - Left The left-hand side carries on the theme of the main crag but thing get quickly more friendly as you... |
17 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Roadside 0 mins |
Windy | 362 |
| Tchao - Right No description as yet. |
14 | Sport |
Early morning sun |
Roadside 0 mins |
Windy | 365 |
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