ORGON


Mention Orgon to climbers who are reasonably familiar with French climbing and most will assume you are referring to Orgon Canal - a super-steep collection of routes, some of which were once amongst the hardest in the world. This is to mis-judge Orgon almost entirely, as the great majority of the climbing here consists of low- to mid-grade routes on largely slabby or vertical rock. There are, of course, steeper sections, like the Canal, but really there is something for everyone from grade 3 to grade 9. The facts that there is a campsite right in the middle of the place, and that it is so easy to get to, even without a car, make it surprising that it is not more popular than it is. The sectors at Orgon as so incredibly varied that it's not possible to give a general indication of conditions - in all likelihood there will be a crag facing the right way with some routes that you'll want to try whatever the time of year.

Routes

334 winter routes (3+...Proj)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Petit Cirque
A small but pleasant amphitheatre of rock. Take care at the base as a slip could lead to a rapid...
27
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

Pointe Sikamole
A great wall with technical routes up a shield of excellent rock. Approach - From the entrance to...
18
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Pointe de la Découverte
A collection of short routes in a fine position. Approach - From the entrance to the campsite,...
12
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Babylone
A few more harder climbs than the neighbouring Papy sector. Approach - Follow the main track up...
11
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Papy
Some nice gentle slabs. Approach - Follow the main track up from the campsite, a path leads off to...
13
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

6 mins

Acteur's Studio
A short crag, but the routes can pack a lot in. Approach - Walk along the base from Papy. You can...
23
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sentinel
The Sentinel is an impressive free-standing rock. Approach - Walk along the campsite's perimeter...
3
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Pilier Nord
Behind it is Pilier Nord, which only has a few routes, but some are very good. Approach - Walk...
12
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Le Grand Cirque
A superb crag, one of the best at Orgon with soaring lines up immaculate rock. Approach - Walk...
20
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Secteur du Haut
Another superb piece of rock with plenty to go at. Approach - Walk along the campsite's perimeter...
12
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

C'est pas du Pan
An isolated sector consisting of a superb steep slab, it is well worth the effort of the approach...
6
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Secteur Oublié
The furthest crag at Orgon has a rather specialised offering - just three hard routes. Follow the...
2
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

La Grotte
The furthest crag at Orgon has a rather specialised offering - just three hard routes. Follow the...
3
Sport
Morning sun
Level

20 mins

Pilier Sud
Pilier Sud has a couple of two-pitch routes in fine positions.
2
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Les Grottes
Les Grottes has a mix of excellent face-climbs and some popular and steep jug-hauls.
14
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Brèche Sud
A fine collection of routes, invariably on superb rock; a good place to start.
43
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Mur Notre-Dame
The first crag you reach when approaching from above. The routes on the right-hand side are all...
22
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

Dalle du Camping
Technical routes up some very good rock, unfortunately the approach is a bit of a pain - it is...
13
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

15 mins

La Quatrième Dimension
No description as yet.
4
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Canalissime
Though chipped, glued and polished, the routes at the left end of the Canal sector take on an...
23
Sport
Morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Bronx
For a while, this sector held some of the hardest routes in the world, and made Orgon a...
20
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Tchao
The left-hand side carries on the theme of the main crag but thing get quickly more friendly as you...
31
Sport
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

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