GORGE DE LA JONTE


The Jonte is not a particularly well-known area, climbers visiting the Gorge du Tarn just up the road are often entirely unaware of its existence, which is surprising, when you consider it has a much longer climbing history. The Jonte is home to an astounding number of superb routes, following a mixture of strong natural lines and stark faces, reaching about 150m in height. While not exactly big-wall climbs, they provide a great deal of atmosphere and exposure. Many of the routes in the Jonte were originally climbed before the era of bolting, and many traditionally-protected routes remain, offering something that few French crags can. A word of warning though: its traditional past is very much in evidence in the grades (especially in the 5s and low 6s) which will feel distinctly tough in comparison to those of the nearby Tarn and Boffi, especially when you're three pitches up, so take it easy to begin with. The crag generally faces south and gets a lot of sun. However, it is worth noting that routes following corners will get sun or shade depending on the time of day. The long routes, which are typical of the crag, are likely to get a cooling breeze when you get towards the top, so it's worth taking a windproof even if it's hot down low.

Routes

1 boulder problem (7a)
263 winter routes (4c...8c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Les Patates
Within walking distance of Le Rozier, this sector has some low-grade single-pitches, and is right...
14
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Le Révérend
This sector has some very impressive big routes.
59
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

17 mins

Pégase
Some good slabby routes on the pinnacle in front of the main Cathédrale wall.
4
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Carole Caline
Some single pitch routes on the small wall in front of the Cathédrale wall.
7
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

L'Arête
The left side of the Cathédrale wall has some fine multi-pitch routes.
4
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

La Cathédrale
This massive wall is home to a number of excellent multi-pitch routes.
14
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Le Vase de Sèvre
The area between Le Vase de Sèvre and le Vase de Chine is popular, and understandably so. The...
17
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Fond du Cirque
The area between Le Vase de Sèvre and le Vase de Chine is popular, and understandably so. The...
22
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Vase de Chine
The area between Le Vase de Sèvre and le Vase de Chine is popular, and understandably so. The...
19
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

Body Building
Perched next to the road is a large free-standing boulder with a number of short, steep, powerful...
6
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

La Roche Décollée
An irresistible feature that is surprisingly amenable, though be prepared for some airy positions....
10
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

18 mins

La Diagonale du Gogol
A set of easier routes than benefit from the shadow of the Roche Décolée later in the day.
35
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

Air de Temps
Some stunning big routes taking striking, exposed lines.
14
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

La Fusée
La Fusée itself is an awesome feature that just begs to be climbed, either side of it are more...
15
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Joyeux Merdier and La Licorne
The final sectors have a good selection of fine single- and multi-pitch routes to go at.
31
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

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