HARPUR HILL


Clearly visible from large areas of the central peak is the quarried plateau of Harpur Hill, looking a little like a ‘lost World’. Despite the existence of some good rock the place has only ever had a handful of trad routes and has always been avoided by the vast majority of Peak climbers over the years. In the early 1990s Sid Siddiqui, Bill Birch and others reassessed the place and concluded that there was good sport to be had here. The ensuing debacle about what was and what was not acceptable to be bolted was long and protracted but in the end common sense prevailed and now the quarry is home to more that 120 sport climbs, many of which see regular traffic.

Routes

48 trad routes (HS...E4)
303 sport routes (VS...7b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Dark Side - Upper Tier
To the left of the main Papacy Buttress, the Upper Tier swings around to face east. This section...
43
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Perched Block Buttress
To the left of Papacy Buttress, the Upper Tier swings around to face east. At the junction of the...
13
Trad and Sport
No sun
Uphill

15 mins

Papacy Buttress
A fine buttress containing many of the best routes at Harpur Hill. It has some striking corners,...
28
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

Prophecy Area
The most extensive section of the upper walls consists of a series of vertical faces, steep cracks...
46
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

The Racetrack Playa Area
The furthest section of the Lower Tier of the east-facing Darkside has been developed with a...
23
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Long Wall
The right-hand side of the Lower Tier has some decent buttresses. Again the area isn't popular,...
35
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

College Buttress
The far right-hand end of the Dark Side has a decent chunky buttress with some reasonable routes.
18
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

The Lower Tier
An extensive wall of rather scrappy rock. There are plenty of routes to go at here, and as long as...
47
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

8 mins

Cairn Area
The best of the harder routes at Harpur Hill is found on a fine wave formation on the lower walls;...
30
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

The Sanctuary
The Sanctuary has a small collection of steep routes in an out-of-the-way setting. As with all...
19
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and down

12 mins

The Playground
Situated above the Cairn Area and the Sanctuary is a smaller quarry which is invisible from most of...
21
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

The Retreat
A shady north-facing bay with some decent rock but nothing of any real quality. The quarry itself...
28
Sport
No sun
Up and down

15 mins

sheltered
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