STANAGE POPULAR


Stanage Popular - the name says it all really. The most popular section of the most popular crag in the UK - there is almost always someone climbing here, whatever the weather and whatever the time of year. Of course this popularity is with good reason, an abundance of classics across the grades, on perfect rock and in a stunning setting; a crag to return to again and again. Visit on a cold crisp winter day, or linger on into the twilight of a late summer evening, come alone or with good friends; however you do it, there is a lifetime of memories waiting to be harvested from the Queen of Grit.

Routes

448 boulder problems (M...E7)
23 ice routes (f5...f7C)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Dover's Wall
At the northern extremity of the Popular End, the last gasp of the superb right-hand side of the...
24
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
BAW's Crawl
Although only short, the quality routes on here make the area worth a visit. The contrast between...
30
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Windy
Verandah Buttress
Steep powerful routes attack the stacked bulges here, there isn't much for the slab climber. The...
20
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Martello Buttress
Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast...
29
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Heaven Crack
No description as yet.
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Mississippi Buttress
Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage - a magnificent bastion of gritstone with a great set of...
28
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Balcony Buttress
A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height. The classic of Balcony Buttress always...
21
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Twin Chimneys Buttress
An area with an excellent collection of easier climbs including the delicate classic of Twin...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Robin Hood's Cave
Robin Hood's Cave is hidden on the left, halfway up Robin Hood's Cave Gully. This superb ever-dry...
20
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Desperation Area
Left of Inverted V is a series of short walls with a some easier climbs. Left again things become...
22
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Inverted V
Bishop's Route, Inverted V and Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct are a trio of great outings...
25
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Black Slab
Here are the superb Orange Spot offerings of April Crack, Christmas Crack and the Trinities, as...
16
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Rusty Wall
The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular. The cracks here are all...
11
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Hollybush Crack
A couple of popular routes on the left on the Leaning Buttress and several routes that see much...
21
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Flying Buttress
The stacked overhangs form one of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone - Flying Buttress; join...
14
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Tippler Buttress
An impressive buttress, home to a fine set of strenuous routes, from the unnerving Censor, through...
14
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Black Hawk Area
This may just be the most popular section of the most popular cliff in the country and with good...
16
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Manchester Buttress
Maurice Linnel's 1930s Mancunian classic is well worth doing, as is nearby Gargoyle Buttress....
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

Windy
Grotto Slab
A popular area with several worthwhile and well-travelled routes. For Heather Wall and Crack and...
24
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Mantelpiece Buttress
This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is often busy with top-ropers and groups...
27
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Suzanne
The final pair of buttresses on the main section of Stanage have a pleasant collection of small...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

Windy
Apparent North
The steep buttress seamed by diagonal overlaps is home to a concentration of hard routes. Recent...
25
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Windy
Grand Theft Area
Dotted along the borken edge beyond Apparent North Buttress are a series of short blocky walls that...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

5 mins

Windy
The Cowper Stone
This isolated block of rock is Stanage's last gasp and proves to be a tough task master. There is...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Bobsnob
    "E1 5a my arse! E3 5b as least. Some great moves going up for the top little righ..." 30/Mar

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

    The Scoop
    "Easy with one 5a move, vague line and massively dissapointing for a 3 star route..." 26/Oct

    BAW's Crawl
    "Awesome outing, definitely recommended." 06/Oct top50

    Providence
    "A good eliminate, and quite tough. No less short lived than the other one (whic..." 21/Jun

    Thrombosis
    "I seconded this and then led Agony Crack. Agony Crack was easier for sure." 03/Jun

    Ashes
    "Didn't find the bold move reachy at all, and soft for 5c. A beautiful route, if..." 29/May

    Dark Continent
    "Fantastic route, better than many a 3 star 'classic' at Stanage." 27/May

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Exhilarating stuff!! After a good fall, I got it on second. Back for a rematch ..." 22/May top50

    Heather Wall
    "Led this onsight as my last climb of a full day (just as the heavens opened!). B..." 17/May

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