LULWORTH


The Lulworth area lies at the heart of the Jurassic Coast, and is popular with visitors attracted by the remarkable scenery, fine coastal walks and beautiful beaches. For the climber the main event is the fantastic overhanging faces and architectural rock arches. The position of the walls perched above the sea not only adds atmosphere to the bolted climbing, but also allows great deep-water-soloing, for which the area has become renowned in recent years.
On the eastern side of Lulworth Cove itself is another climbing area - Lulworth East, which has some worthwhile sport and trad pitches that usually involve spectacular roof climbing. To the west of Lulworth Cove lies a high ridge of steep pinnacles (Dungy Head) and a huge boulder on the seashore known as Church Rock. These provide a complete contrast in style with generally easier, pocketed wall climbs that may be an attractive option when the arms can no longer lock-off at Stair Hole, or for those in search of easier grades. The final area is Durdle Door, with its famous and much-photographed arch, which is home to several sustained pump-outs.

Routes

4 trad routes (E6...E7)
12 sport routes (6c+...8a)
11 dws routes (E5...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Durdle Door
Durdle Door has some fine, well-bolted sport routes that are located on the seaward face of the...
5
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Dungy Head and Church Rock
Church Rock is the isolated pinnacle down on the boulder beach west of Lulworth Cove. The rock has...
16
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

Restricted Access
Stair Hole Traverses
There are three circular traverses the first of which is used to approach the West Cave. On the...
9
DWS
Sun and shade
Up and down

5 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Stair Hole - West Cave
The west cave is somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour, but still offers some fine routes in a...
22
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

5 mins

Restricted Access
Stair Hole - East Cave
An awesome venue packed with brilliant pitches on magnificent rock. Some of the routes are bolted...
28
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

5 mins

Restricted Access
Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area
A quiet section of cliff with a number of worthwhile routes on reasonable rock. There are some...
22
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Amphitheatre Roofs
This roof playground gives similar routes to those at Stair Hole, only shorter and steeper. The...
13
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
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