HEDBURY


The Hedbury and Smokey Hole area encompasses four very different crags to the west of Dancing Ledge. The main interest for most climbers will be Hedbury Quarry which is like a more compact version of the main quarry at Dancing Ledge with similar style routes but it is usually much quieter. The rock here is steep and solid and dotted with some strange flowstone holds. It is a good place for an afternoon’s sport climbing in winter, getting lots of sun and located away from the sea. Just around the corner from Hedbury Quarry, and in complete contrast, is the immense Hedbury Big Cove. Huge leaning walls, massive overhangs, slightly unstable rock and big grade trad routes make this a place for maximum intimidation and atmosphere - and all this straight above the sea. Smokey Hole, on the other hand, is more solid and less steep than The Big Cove but has a similar set of high quality, high grade trad routes in a sensational setting. Most of the routes in the Big Cove and Smokey Hole have had few repeats but their position as some of the most demanding challenges at Swanage is assured and they certainly deserve more traffic. Topmast Quarry has three steep and sheltered sport routes.

Routes

11 trad routes (E2...E7)
30 sport routes (1...7c)
5 dws routes (5a...6b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Quarry
A popular section of the quarry with some easier lines and a handful of tougher pitches on...
27
DWS
Afternoon sun
Up and down

30 mins

sheltered
The Big Cove
This is a very intimidating cliff with huge, overhanging routes on often-suspect rock. The routes...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

30 mins

Restricted Access
Smokey Hole
A huge leaning wall of good rock with routes to match those on the Lean Machine face. It is hidden...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

30 mins

Abseil
Restricted Access
Topmast Quarry
This small quarry has a set of short and powerful lines that are very well sheltered from the...
3
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and down

30 mins

Abseil
Restricted Access
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