HEDBURY


The Hedbury and Smokey Hole areas encompass four very different crags to the west of Dancing Ledge. The main interest for most climbers will be Hedbury Quarry, which is a similar but more compact version of the main quarry at Dancing Ledge. The rock here is steep and solid and dotted with flowstone holds. It is a good place for an afternoon's sport climbing in winter, getting lots of sun and being set back away from the sea. Just around the corner from the quarry is the atmospheric Hedbury Big Cove with its leaning walls, massive overhangs, slightly unstable rock and hard trad routes. Smokey Hole, on the other hand, is more solid and less steep than Hedbury Big Cove but has a similar set of high quality, high grade trad routes in a sensational setting. The tucked away Topmast Quarry has three steep and sheltered sport routes.

Routes

5 dws routes (5a...6b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Quarry
Like near neighbours Winspit and Dancing Ledge , Hedbury Quarry is a well-frequented venue. The...
27
DWS
Sun and shade
Up and down

30 mins

sheltered
The Big Cove
This is a very intimidating cliff with huge, overhanging routes on often-suspect rock. The routes...
7
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

30 mins

Smokey Hole
A huge leaning wall of good rock with routes to match those on the Lean Machine face. It is hidden...
12
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

30 mins

Abseil
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