STANAGE PLANTATION


Stanage Plantation has a superb array of routes, including many great classics across the grades, as well as lots of lovely discrete spots for a bit of peace and quiet. The area has a lovely ambience when you first pop out of the trees and, as it unfolds in front of you, it is obvious that this whole section of Stanage is somewhere rather special. The delights on offer here are displayed less extravagantly than the Popular End but there are enough high quality routes for a great many visits.
The Plantation Boulders are immensely popular and the area is almost always busy, often even more so than the main cliff. The Rockfax Peak Bouldering guidebook lists these in great detail but a small selection of the classics is included here.

Routes

377 boulder problems (M...E7)
46 ice routes (f5...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
^
^
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Count's Buttress
Below the gap in the edge, where the Long Causeway links the Hope Valley with Sheffield, is the...
36
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
D.I.Y. Area
Right of Count's Buttress are several short walls of lovely rock, though sadly with only a small...
21
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Surprise
A complex and interesting area of slabs and walls. Despite the variety available here, the area...
28
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Outlook Buttress
Above the upper section of flagged path that runs through the Plantation is a series of short walls...
26
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Fern Crack
Left of the slumped slab of Wall End is a fine tall buttress, tucked away in a recess. There are...
8
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Wall End Slab
An attractive slumped slab of rock with its eponymous venerable classic and some more recent...
9
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Goliath's Groove
An attractive set of aretes and walls that include some of the best offerings on the cliff. As...
32
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Crescent Arete Bouldering
The blocks below the Goliath's Groove Area form one of the most popular bouldering spots in the...
19
Bouldering
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Satin
A collection of short buttresses squeezed between more popular areas. Although of a lesser stature,...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Fina
A series of short walls and blocks with a few interesting routes that are seldom busy.
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Tower Face
The tallest wall on the cliff with routes to match. Tower Face Direct and Flight of Ideas are great...
24
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
The Strangler Area
A secluded slab with a set of hard routes as well as a short Upper Tier above Tower Face which has...
7
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Hathersage Trip
A secluded area with a few interesting Orange Spot routes plus some harder stuff - typical...
34
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Pegasus Wall Area
This is a popular area with some good mid-grade routes. In addition to Pegasus Wall, Overhanging...
27
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Paradise Wall
A very popular area with a good collection of mid-grade routes including some classic cracks and a...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Windy
Millsom's Minion
A fine companion to Paradise Wall. Good for HVS to E3 routes offering hard starts on pockets with...
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Windy
Straight Ahead
A rambling section of the edge flanked on either side by more popular big hitters. An area to...
14
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Namenlos
A fine hunk of rock with Namenlos and Wall Buttress as the popular ticks. The other climbs here see...
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Calvary
No description as yet.
20
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
The Unconquerables
Home to a trio of classic cracks including the peerless pitch of The Right Unconquerable, one of...
17
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Away from it All
Between the ever-popular Unconquerables and Dover's Wall is a series of short buttresses that used...
27
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Zero Zero Sputnik
    "Cleaned it, top roped it, then led it with a salmon like leap for the top." 15/Aug

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Paradise Crack
    "Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads..." 07/Jun

    The Count
    "Looks from the votes and comments that this doesn't start with a V5 boulder prob..." 24/Apr

    The Left Unconquerable
    "did this after 2 hours of bouldering so felt pumpy and got more tired from placi..." 07/Sep top50

    Symbiosis
    "Reading Bob's mention of "heart flutter" took me back to when I did th..." 10/Aug

    Fern Crack
    "This is probably on the upper limit of VS. I found all the sections hard - 4c al..." 09/Aug

    Search for comments