LOWER PEN TRWYN


Lower Pen Trwyn (or LPT as it is affectionately known) is an awesome chunk of sea cliff, which has been at the forefront of cutting-edge sport climbing since the early 1980s. For hard sport climbing, this is one of the very best venues in the country. Lower Pen Trwyn also has a wide range of superb routes across the lower-to-mid grade span. The limestone is generally solid, clean and of the highest quality, particularly on the steep left-hand sectors. Condensed into this impressive bulge of orange and grey-streaked limestone, there are more than 20 routes of 8a and above. The central section is vertical and contains several immaculate and technical seventh-grade face climbs. Some pleasant and popular easier sport climbs can be found on the slightly less fierce right-hand section. Because the crag is tidal, many of the wave-pounded starts are sharp and the first bolts (above high tide) can feel far above the ground, although the climbing is usually straight-forward. Nevertheless, a stick-clip is probably a good idea and also a few wires are often useful to protect moves to the first bolt.

Routes

10 trad routes (HVS...E4)
51 sport routes (5c...9a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Lower Pen Trwyn Right
No description as yet.
6
Trad
   
Dutchman's Zawn
No description as yet.
4
Sport
   
Under the Boardwalk
The magnificent Lower Pen Trwyn begins somewhat unspectacularly out of a chossy gully, however...
9
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

8 mins

Tidal
Seepage
sheltered
Over the Moon
The showpiece hard sport climbing crag of Wales is the central bulging section of Lower Pen Trywn....
14
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

8 mins

Tidal
Seepage
sheltered
Statement of Youth
The routes get easier the further right you go. The right-hand section offers sustained...
14
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

8 mins

Tidal
Seepage
sheltered
Face Race
A vertical sheet of excellent rock that is lined with a selection of sustained and technical wall...
8
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

8 mins

Tidal
Seepage
sheltered
Kaffe Fasset
The right-most section of bolted climbs at Lower Pen Trwyn are very popular and mostly grade 6s....
7
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

8 mins

Tidal
Seepage
sheltered
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