GORGES DU LOUP


A huge, impressive gorge with masses of rock, cutting into the hills to the north west of Vence. There is a lot of climbing here, though much of it is very hard, and due to seepage and shade, several of the cliffs come into their best in the summer months. Listed here are routes on two large cliffs at the lower end of the gorge. It is worth a ride through the gorge to investigate the amount of rock and some impressive waterfalls - it all makes Cheedale look a bit weak. Often cool and blowy, the gorge is a popular venue in the summer when the heat is on (shade after 2pm on the west side). The cliffs described here can offer climbable conditions in the winter, though their recessed nature means they are slow to dry, and an extra layer may be needed to keep warm! Humidity from the river can be an issue on Mesa Verde, as can seepage after heavy rain on both cliffs. Jurassic and Cayenne face east, so they get the morning sun until midday. There is usually a good breeze at Jurassic, but it is usually hotter and much less breezy at Cayenne. They both offer shelter, so it is possible to climb during the rain. When walking through the tunnels, check whether the pipe/concrete is dry or damp. This will indicate either good or sweaty conditions at the cliffs. For Deverse, the crag is in the shade until about 2pm, and always has a good wind. The cliff is very steep and stays dry for at least a week during heavy rain.

Routes

125 winter routes (5c...9a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
_
-
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Mesa Verde
A popular crag, steep and with an good selection of hard routes. Much of the rock stays dry in the...
27
Sport
Morning sun
Level

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
L'Hermitage
A fine crag with a good selection of orange and red spot multi-pitch routes in an exposed setting...
11
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

Déverse Satanique
A super-steep crag (originally known as Pupuce Surplomb) with a massive collection of hard to very...
23
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Cayenne
This steep crag is home to 20+ steep routes/variations up some fine tufa-encrusted walls. They get...
23
Sport
No sun
Downhill

32 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Jurassic Park
The right-hand of these two popular crags is home to another 40 routes/variations on the steep and...
41
Sport
No sun
Downhill

30 mins

Seepage
sheltered
What do these symbols mean?