CHÂTEAUVERT


A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't! The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope! Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

Routes

178 winter routes (3...8b+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
^
^
^
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Grand Face
The show-piece of the crag, the Grand Face has few amenable offerings. The best of the routes are...
46
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside

5 mins

sheltered
Le Muret to Westpoint
With some fine red walls on the left (Le Muret) and more typical Châteauvert pocketed grey...
43
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Alex
A fine tower plastered with big holds. A sunny aspect and good sunbathing ledges add to the...
11
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

3 mins

sheltered
Technogène
A fine, jutting tower of rock with a fine set of orange-grade routes on superb rock. Not...
19
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Le Gaga
Another fine jutting tower of grey rock with a set of popular orange-grade routes. Down and right,...
13
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Roadside Buttresses
A selection of caves and smaller walls right by the road and a more extensive and impressive set of...
23
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

Eastern Buttresses
The last section of the cliff to be described are the near- roadside faces beyond the bend at the...
23
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

What do these symbols mean?