A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't! The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!
Routes
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149 sport routes (3...8b+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Grand Face - Left The show-piece of the crag, the left-hand side has few amenable offerings. The crag is in the sun... |
18 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Roadside 5 mins |
0 | 172 |
| Grand Face - Right The ranks of routes in the upper '7s' makes this a destination for the hard-core. The best of the... |
23 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 2 mins |
0 | 174 |
| Le Muret to Westpoint With some fine red walls on the left (Le Muret) and more typical Ch‰teauvert pocketed grey... |
19 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
0 | 176 |
| Alex A fine tower plastered with big holds. A sunny aspect and good sunbathing ledges add to the... |
10 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 3 mins |
0 | 180 |
| Technogène A fine, jutting tower of rock with a fine set of orange-grade routes on superb rock. Not... |
20 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 2 mins |
0 | 182 |
| Le Gaga Another fine jutting tower of grey rock with a set of popular orange-grade routes. Down and right,... |
13 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 2 mins |
0 | 184 |
| Roadside Buttresses A selection of caves and smaller walls right by the road and a more extensive and impressive set of... |
23 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 2 mins |
Windy 0 | 186 |
| Eastern Buttresses The last section of the cliff to be described are the near- roadside faces beyond the bend at the... |
23 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 2 mins |
Windy 0 | 188 |
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