BEESTON CLIFF


Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock and some particularly good easier and mid-grade lines. With the exception of one wall, the climbs are bolted, with a number doubling up as decent deep water solos. This is a quiet area that is often overlooked and is consequently worth considering on busy Bank Holidays. The Golden Pants Area and Limekiln Cave have some good technical sport routes although the latter area is quite tidal. The Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The exception to this friendly picture is The Great Escape Wall which is a totally different ball game, having one very atmospheric staple-bolted traverse as well as being home to some very serious shallow water solos.

Routes

11 trad routes (E1...E7)
41 sport routes (?...?)
5 dws routes (E3...?)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Golden Pants Wall
This outlying area is a short, smooth, non-tidal wall of good rock which faces southeast. The...
11
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Limekiln Cave Area
This is a series of low, tidal cliffs. Most of the routes are on compact rock, although limited...
15
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
The Great Escape Wall
This snaking, block-topped wall has a number of unusual lines, including a fully-bolted traverse....
14
Trad
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Bay of Rainbows Area
A fine wall of flowstone with some pleasant and well-bolted lower-grade climbs. A great place to...
17
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Abseil
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  • Latest Comments

    For BEESTON CLIFF

    Sea Pink
    "I found reaching the decent holds prior to making the crux moves pretty reachy. ..." 15/Oct

    Fight the Good Fight
    "Tough but enjoyable little climb." 19/Jun

    Bungle, Zippy and George
    "As a lead, this route is quite dangerous, with a nasty fall awaiting anyone blow..." 30/Jun

    Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust
    "Managed to do this on the only day in 5 years that the tide was low enough for s..." 25/Mar

    Krakatoa
    "The climb only has two bolts. Crux is just before second bolt, not really that h..." 15/Mar

    Strategem
    "Just one/two hardish moves. Good Little wall climb, as are the other routs on th..." 17/Oct

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