STANAGE NORTH


Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and is the least popular of the three main sections. It runs from the Long Causeway all the way out to End Slab, and apart from High Neb and Crow Chin the whole area is normally pretty quiet. It lacks the ranked classics of the Plantation and the Popular End but there is plenty of good climbing here, in a remoter feeling setting than the rest of the cliff, and with a greater chance of solitude.

Routes

429 trad routes (M...E8)
22 boulder problems (f5...f7C+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Start Area
The first (or is it last?) bits of rock on the whole of the mighty edge that is Stanage are a...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
Stanage End
A fine secluded pair of slabs has some good but poorly protected lower-grade routes. The area is...
22
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
Surgeon's Saunter
A fine, tall and isolated buttress which is rarely busy. The classic crack of Surgeon's Saunter is...
27
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
The Wobbler Area
Short, steep walls and some decent cracks alternate. The area was once quarried, which explains the...
30
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

22 mins

Windy
Big Pebble Walls
The least popular part of Stanage and with good reason. The area is just about the most distant...
33
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Lonely Crag
A small, isolated and well-named buttress midway between Marble Wall and Big Pebble Walls. It is...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Marble Wall
A place where the quarry-men displayed their skills, leaving us a fine set of routes. Green in the...
22
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Cleft Buttress
To the right of Marble Wall, a large squat tower stands in front of the edge; it is possible to...
19
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

18 mins

Windy
Crow Chin
A fine collection of lower grade climbs near the high point of the moor and with a superb outlook....
19
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Twin Buttress
No description as yet.
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Meson
No description as yet.
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Exodus
An isolated buttresses which is well worth a look if you are after Orange Spot routes. The...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Puss
Pleasant fingery problems which are worth looking at if you have ticked the routes on the neighbour...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Cosmic Crack Area
A steep overhang-peppered buttress with a good collection of routes. Although short, most of them...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Travesties
A pair walls of split by a deep chimney. The similarity between the two facets, especially the...
21
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
The Blurter
The classic devious trip of The Blurter is the main attraction of this area but there are a couple...
15
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Fate and Youth
A pair of pleasant slabby faces that are always popular, mainly because of easy-angled rock and a...
16
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Windy
High Neb
No description as yet.
53
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Titanic and Blockhead
The first of a series of small but interesting buttresses lost in the wilderness between High Neb...
24
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Windy
Anniversary Arete
The tower of Anniversary Arete has a small amount of good climbing in the middle of nowhere and one...
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Fun in the Sun
A series of short buttresses spread across the hillside. Many of these routes are being strangled...
13
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Creepy and Crawly
Another tiny pair of buttresses between High Neb and the Long Causeway - this one is 20m left of...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Broken Buttress
Broken Buttress is recognised by its prominent rowan tree. The crag is rather gritty, though a...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Enclosure Buttress
The iron fencing that gave the buttress its name has almost all gone now. The routes are not the...
22
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Meninblack
Just before the Long Causeway reaches the crest of the moor there is a series of small buttresses...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Flesh and Blood
    "It has a tough finish too..." 21/Jul

    Where did my Tan Go?
    "The natural line is start on the arete, move left at the break to climb the wall..." 17/Jul

    Warm September
    "Changed from HVS 5a to VS 4c, 50% of 2 votes for VS" 18/Jun

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

    Central Buttress
    "The topo in the latest guide shows the initial traverse being high up, at the fi..." 12/Oct

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

    Deuteronomy
    "Bloody awkward and hard work from the off. What appear to be bomber jams or sid..." 28/Sep

    Kelly's Overhang
    "Splendid fun. By Pythonists definition, I did the E1, but I like this sort of t..." 18/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements." 07/Sep

    Cent
    "I used to solo this regularly in the eighties when it was graded VS 5b. Whether ..." 26/Aug

    Slap 'n' Spittle
    "Don't see how this can be E4 6A as that would make it the same grade as Calvery...." 22/Aug

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