STANAGE NORTH


Stanage has routes of every grade from the easiest of bumbles to climbs at the limit of human ability. It also has climbing of every style and there is enough here to keep most climbers ticking over for at least half a lifetime. A trip up the long bracken-covered slopes to sample the delights of the High Neb region of Stanage will be rewarded with some great classics and sometimes slightly less overcrowding than on the other sections.

Routes

429 trad routes (M...E8)
21 boulder problems (V1 5b...V10 7C+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Start Area
The first (or is it last?) bits of rock on the whole of the mighty edge that is Stanage are a...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
Stanage End
A fine secluded pair of slabs has some good but poorly protected lower-grade routes. The area is...
22
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
Surgeon's Saunter
A fine tall and isolated buttress which is rarely busy. The classic crack of Surgeon's Saunter is...
27
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
The Wobbler Area
Short, steep walls and some decent cracks alternate. The area was once quarried which explains the...
30
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
Pebbly Walls
The least popular part of Stanage and with good reason. The area is just about the most distant...
32
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Windy
Lonely Crag
A small, isolated and well named buttress midway between Marble Wall and Pebble Walls. It is rare...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Marble Wall
A place where the quarrymen showed what great craftsmen they were, leaving us a fine set of routes....
22
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Cleft Buttress
To the right of Marble Wall, a large squat tower stands in front of the edge, it is possible to...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Crow Chin
A fine collection of lower grade climbs near the high point of the moor and with a superb outlook....
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Twin Buttress
A neglected buttress with some interesting climbs. None of them is outstanding but ,together with...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Meson
A quiet companion to Twin Buttress with a few things of interest. The routes don't see many ascents...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Exodus
Two isolated buttresses which are well worth a look if you are after orange spot routes. The...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Puss
Pleasant fingery problems which are worth looking at if you have ticked the routes on the neighbour...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Cosmic Crack Area
A steep overhang-peppered buttress with a good collection of routes. Although short, most of them...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Travesties
A pair walls of split by a deep chimney. The similarity between the two facets, especially the...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

18 mins

The Blurter
The classic devious trip of Blurter is the main attraction of this area but there are a couple of...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Fate and Youth
A pair of pleasant slabby faces that are always popular, mainly due to the easy angle of the rock...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

High Neb
High Neb offers some superb climbing in a majestic location and, except for sunny summer weekends,...
53
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Titanic and Blockhead
The first of a series of small but interesting buttresses lost in the wilderness between High Neb...
24
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Anniversary Arete
The tower of Anniversary Arete has a small amount of good climbing in the middle of nowhere and one...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Fun in the Sun
A series of short buttresses spread across the hillside. Many of these routes are being strangled...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Creepy and Crawly
Another tiny buttresses between High Neb and the Long Causeway - this one being 20m left of the...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Broken Buttress
Broken Buttress is recognised by its prominent rowan tree. The crag is rather gritty, though a...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Enclosure Buttress
The iron fencing that gave the buttress its name has almost all gone now, from around what is...
22
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Meninblack
Just before the Long Causeway reaches the crest of the moor there is a series of small buttresses...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

    Central Buttress
    "The topo in the latest guide shows the initial traverse being high up, at the fi..." 12/Oct

    Richard's Sister
    "The entry into the wide upper crack is a bit awkward." 04/Oct

    Deuteronomy
    "Bloody awkward and hard work from the off. What appear to be bomber jams or sid..." 28/Sep

    Kelly's Overhang
    "Splendid fun. By Pythonists definition, I did the E1, but I like this sort of t..." 18/Sep

    Right-hand Tower
    "Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements." 07/Sep

    Cent
    "I used to solo this regularly in the eighties when it was graded VS 5b. Whether ..." 26/Aug

    Slap 'n' Spittle
    "Don't see how this can be E4 6A as that would make it the same grade as Calvery...." 22/Aug

    Icy Crack
    "Gears not that bad. I'll agree it's not brilliant but there's a bomber medium nu..." 13/Aug

    Anniversary Arete
    "A great route, but very easy for E1 and 5B." 09/Aug

    Uno Cracks
    "Looks like a missing block/flake early on has made the start a bit harder." 09/Aug

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