AVON GORGE


The huge winding gash of the Avon Gorge holds the UK's biggest and best urban crag. Brunel's famous suspension bridge spans the gorge, providing a magnificent backdrop to the climbing and, even though the cliffs are blighted by traffic noise, the climbing experience is memorable. The crags rise to around 70 metres and for the most part are composed of high quality quarried limestone, the one exception being the grand natural buttress beneath the suspension bridge itself.
The Gorge is basically a traditional venue and caters for most tastes and abilities, offering single and multi-pitch climbs throughout the grade range. Each of the cliffs has a distinct style. The compact and quarried nature of the Sea Walls and Main Wall take a bit of getting used to, their profusion of flat or sloping holds and often-spaced protection exercising the mind as much as the body. In contrast the Suspension Bridge Buttress and Unknown Area offer a more conventional limestone experience with better protection possibilities and generally steeper faces.
Access to the Gorge and its climbing is simple and for the travelling visitor makes a convenient stop-off on the way to, or return from, locations deeper into the West Country.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Unknown Wall
The left side of the area is a huge mass of variable-quality rock (the Unknown Wall) up which some...
16
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

3 mins

Sea Walls
The Sea Walls are the most popular section of The Avon Gorge and have a line-up of easily-accessed...
13
Trad
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Main Wall - Lich Area
The left side of the Main Wall has a number of good and popular routes that are a nice introduction...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Main Wall - Malbogies Area
The right-hand side of the Main Wall has a number of long, hard routes that typify the best of what...
7
Trad
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Main Wall - Pink Wall
The steep, white and pale-pink wall that leans out over the left-hand side of Morning Slab is the...
6
Trad
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Main Wall - Morning Slab and Evening Wall
Morning Slab is a massive hulk of compact rock, split in its lower half by bands of narrow...
9
Trad
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Main Wall - Central Buttress
The long narrow rib at the far right-hand end of the cliff holds some high quality climbs, though...
4
Trad
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Giant's Cave Buttress
A long undulating series of steep buttresses dropping the full-height of the Gorge define the line...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Suspension Bridge Buttress
Located under the Suspension Bridge, this fine crag is home to some Avon Gorge classics. The rock...
7
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

12 mins

What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For AVON GORGE

    Gronk
    "A large slab or rock has come off the second pitch of Gronk leaving a big white ..." 17/Jul

    Original Route
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 06/Jul

    Yellow Edge
    "An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & ..." 10/Sep

    M1
    "unless it has changed - and i've done it three times in the last twenty five yea..." 14/Apr

    Nightmare
    "route is tricky and the last section this not very good protection. still worth ..." 17/Feb

    Mirage
    "Did this straight after Arms Race, but even so, the crux felt HARD. You get a se..." 03/Nov

    New Horizons
    "The second pitch is probably more 5b than 5c." 13/Oct

    Great Central Route
    "A very good varied route. But why the sustained symbol?" 22/Aug

    Hell Gates
    "Great route...better to combine 1st two pitches into one long lead imho. Exiting..." 10/Apr

    Limbo
    "Can be done in one pitch, but surely it's better to finish left towards the bela..." 21/Aug

    Sleepwalk
    "I love this route, but not sure why you have a pumpy symbol - a flutter would be..." 28/Jul top50

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