The massive cliffs that fringe the bleak St Agnes Head south of the tranquil fishing village of St Agnes, are some of the most impressive but least ventured upon in the West Country. The various buttresses and walls collectively known as Carn Gowla reach their highest around the headland, and are serious cliffs that drop straight into the relentless Atlantic swell. The climbs described here are some of the better travelled at Carn Gowla, although it is rare to see another party on the cliffs. The approaches to, and the abseils themselves need to be carefully executed with due regard to the prevailing sea conditions. These considerations combined with the isolated ambience and at times unsettling rock quality means that Carn Gowla will not appeal to all. However for climbers looking for adventure on a grand scale this is a cliff that is unlikely to disappoint, and if caught on a calm summers' afternoon or a wild spring day will be a spot not to be forgotten.
Routes
|
14 trad routes (S...E6) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |      | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| America Buttress One of the most intimidating cliffs in the West Country, the America Buttress peers out northwards... |
3 | Trad |
No sun |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 178 | |
| The Black Walls A series of shorter, but still very steep walls and buttresses that extend towards St Agnes Head... |
3 | Trad |
No sun |
Abseil Windy | 179 | |
| The Vault Wall A huge hulk of a cliff that leans out seaward and is flanked on the left by some equally large... |
1 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Level 2 mins |
Abseil Tidal Seepage Windy | 180 |
| Mercury Area An enormous, intimidating cliff on which is one of the West Country's greatest lines. The rock is... |
1 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 2 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 181 |
| Triple Buttress A series of shallow buttresses (named A, B and C buttress) and corners make up this unusual section... |
4 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 5 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 182 |
| Indian Buttress At the southern end of the Carn Gowla crags is this buttress of good rock with one very good corner... |
2 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Downhill 5 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 183 |
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