CHEESEWRING QUARRY


Carved out of the compact granite of Bodmin Moor, Cheesewring Quarry has for decades been one of Cornish climbing's forcing grounds. Its development has kept up with the grades of many of those of nearby Devon's sport climbs and a good spread of tough trad-pitches that compliment those of Cornwall's sea cliffs. The strange gravity-defying Cheesewring itself peers down over the edge of the quarry, taking in the view of the walls that for the first time visitor can be a bit of a revelation, being both extensive and up to around 30m in height. The style of the climbing is often very specific, the nature of the quarried rock giving little in the way of intermediate holds that might take the sting out of the moves. As a consequence the climbing feels tougher that on the natural unquarried granite in the region. Nevertheless, the climbs are excellent and the spread of both traditional and sport climbs is such that most tastes will be catered for. One good tip is that Cheesewring Quarry is really only a fine weather venue, being located high on Bodmin Moor, and very exposed to the elements. Many have visited for a look in poor weather, never to bother returning.

Routes

12 trad routes (VD...E3)
6 sport routes (6c...7c+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Western Outcrop
A compact wall of excellent rock with a small selection of good lines, some bold and some very...
6
Trad
Morning sun
Level

13 mins

sheltered
Main Wall
The middle section of the Main Wall is the centrepiece of Cheesewring Quarry. The rock and climbing...
12
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

13 mins

sheltered
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