BLOCKHOUSE TO SITTING BULL


Between the jutting headland of the Castle, and the prow of Triple Overhang, are a series of bays giving a mixture of solid buttresses and overhanging rubble and choss. Although there is nothing outstanding here, one or two routes are well worth investigating especially if you want to escape the crowds. Blockhouse Buttress is an impressive formation with a tidy little set of slab and crack routes up its front face, turning to easy scrambling for the upper 15m or so. The well-named Sheer Delight is the pick of the bunch giving easy climbing up a wonderful solid pillar of rock. Space Buttress offers a complex set of roofs and horizontal bands of jugs with the routes tending to take intricate lines in an attempt to stick on the big holds and avoid the nasty steep pulls around the roofs (they are not always successful in this). The final section described is the protruding Jolly Sensible Arete - the most famous tick on Sitting Bull Buttress - not the greatest route in Pembroke, but a popular one nevertheless.

Routes

13 trad routes (S...E2)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Blockhouse Buttress
A slabby buttress with a mini-Mewsford platform beneath it and the classic Sheer delight.
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week

80
Space Buttress
This protruding buttress has an overhanging front face and a steep side-wall.
3
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week

81
Sitting Bull Buttress
Famous for the most over-photographed 1 star route in Pemborke - Jolly Sensible Arete.
2
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week

81
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