VÅGAKALLEN


With its huge rock precipices on almost every side, Austvågøy's dominant and most beautiful mountain presents an impressive and daunting challenge. Any ascent to its remote summit is an experience not soon forgotten, especially if the climb is made in clear and sunny weather, as it should be for safety. The summit panorama of sea, sky and neighbouring peaks, with the islands of Vestvågøya, Flakstadøya and Moskenesøya to the southwest, and the Norwegian mainland to the south, is truly unforgettable. Attempting the peak in poor weather is a bad idea; route finding (ascending or descending) on the upper sections of the mountain is difficult enough even on clear days.
The peak offers a variety of technical routes as well, ranging from the standard classic scramble of Sydveggen (see page 301) which is also the normal descent. To the Yosemite-like (always excluding the weather of course) Storpillaren, up the North Face. This latter route set the standard for many years but this has now been eclipsed by the huge lines of Storm Pillar and Freya over to the left.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Myggapillaren
Myggapillaren is the left-hand and more elegant of the two clean pillars on the face of Vågakallen...
2
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Windy
North Face
Once known for obvious reasons as 'The Bonatti Pillar of Lofoten', this massive arrow-head of sheer...
6
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Nordryggen
Lofoten's best low-grade 'Alpine' rock climb. An excellent tour of Vågakallen can be had by...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For VÅGAKALLEN

    Storpillaren
    "Changed from *** to N7 ***, 100% of 5 votes for N7" 27/May top50

    Storpillaren
    "The approach is depending on the water. If wet, you might take a rope on 2 place..." 23/Jul top50

    Storpillaren
    "Hello, It's question about rack recommendation, assuming we intend to climmb li..." 22/Mar top50

    Mygga
    "A kind of an adventure climb with some very good climbing as well. 2 Stars are c..." 29/May

    Wee Beastie
    "The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally ..." 23/May

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