PARADISET


Paradiset is located just to the south of the tiny fishing village of Kalle, 5km along the coast as the gull flies from Henningsvær. It is a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea, with distant views of the mysterious mountains of the mainland. Paradise is one of Lofoten’s most popular climbing destinations for a variety of reasons; the high-friction quick-drying rock, a great collection of easier climbs, the seascape, the impressive views of Vågakallen soaring high above, the beautiful jamming cracks and the existence of wild camping close to the cliffs. Traditionally many of Paradiset’s climbs have not been named or documented, though this policy has been slightly inconsistent over the years. This lack of information, combined with the complex nature of the various gullies, walls and boulders, has meant that climbers have tended to focus on the obvious cliffs missing out on some great routes elsewhere. This time we have described most of the major routes although there are certainly more that have been done over the years. In some cases we have made up names for these routes to give them a bit of character and uniqueness. If the documenting of these routes with their new names offends, please feel free to ignore them and go exploring, getting lost among the rocks, sun, rain and surf of Paradiset - just as it ever was.

Routes

63 trad routes (N3...N8+)
1 sport route (4c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Paradiset West Boulders
These the large boulders must have fallen from the flanks of Vågakallen aeons ago. They are home to...
5
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

20 mins

sheltered
Dammen (The Lake)
A short slabby wall contains three short but excellent jamming cracks plus some harder stuff. Sadly...
8
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

20 mins

sheltered
Backside Gully
The gully crossed between the Main Cliff and Paradise West contains a couple of steep crack pitches...
2
Trad
No sun
Up and down

15 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Main Cliff
A fine wall tapering down towards the sea, which offers some excellent short routes on great rock....
14
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

15 mins

sheltered
Svenske diedret and Lille veggen
This short wall with its compelling central groove-line is passed on the way to the Main Cliff. To...
7
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Butter Arms
This pseudo-boulder is actually the end of a rocky bluff overlooking the lake and wild camping...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Dashboard Light
Opposite Living in Paradise and behind and left of the Butter Arms boulder is a fine slab, 40m high...
4
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
'X' Marks the Spot
This wide wall has a small selection of climbs in a sunny setting. The X-shaped cracks identify the...
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Living in Paradise
A set of sea cliff climbs which are worth seeking out for some fine climbing in a secluded setting....
5
Trad
Morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Demonstranten
This small collection of climbs is situated to the south of the approach path to Butter Arms and...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Vågarisset
The impressive buttress above Paradise is home to a pair of infrequently climbed routes. There is...
2
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

30 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For PARADISET

    Butter Arms
    "nothing smaller than friend #1 / camalot #.5 needed (except a small wire to aid ..." 15/Aug top50

    Love Me Two Times
    "There's a nice climb up flakes trending up left from this hand-crack start (whic..." 06/Aug

    Living in Paradise
    "We prefer approaching past the route Demonstranten." 02/Aug top50

    Living in Paradise
    "Its possible to reach the start direct from the sector Dashboard light, but only..." 29/May top50

    Venstre risset
    "Much harder than the grade suggest: around 5+ thought our 3-member team." 14/Jun

    Living in Paradise
    "Excellent crack route, good fun!" 06/Apr top50

    Vågarisset
    "I would call it an off-width crack..." 10/Aug

    By the Dashboard Light
    "Bold! Didn't really manage to protect the first half (some aliens, but I didn't..." 28/Jul top50

    X-crement
    "An OK route in my opinion. :o)" 21/Jul

    X-crement
    "That's because we shifted most of it! Chris" 16/Jul

    X-crement
    "Not such a bad route in my opinion. Hardly any loose rock..." 16/Jul

    By the Dashboard Light
    "Maybe some small off-set cams can do the trick on the run-out middle section? It..." 06/Jul top50

    Master Class
    "Tricky and sustained. It finishes up the right-hand crack not the left one. Shor..." 02/Jun

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