A rarity on Lofoten, a selection of hard and ever-dry sport routes, tucked away on the north east coast of Vesvagøy, far enough from the trad climbing heart lands not to cause too much of a fuss. The crag was discovered by Andreas Haug Christiansen in 2002, and with Knut Storvik, bolted what would become Gullfaks in early 2003. In February (well there is a little daylight!) Eggulf became the first route on the cliff, though most of the development took place in the summer of 2005 when Knut, along with Andreas and Odd-Roar Wiik took the place by storm. The crag faces due north though of course this is the Arctic so you can clip bolts at midnight bathed in full sunshine - how weird is that! The crag is steep enough to stay dry at all times, and the rock is not too hard on the hands.
Routes
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1 trad route (N5+) 26 sport routes (N7-...N9-) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Seilasgeggen (Voyage Wall) The first trio of routes start at the top of the slope, beyond the striated wall of Sector Crux.... |
3 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain |
| Sector Crux Tucked under the biggest roofs is the Sector Crux, easily recognised by the by the series if near... |
6 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain |
| Hovedveggen (Main Wall) The main section of the cliff, the steep centre and right-hand side of the bowl, home to a batch of... |
22 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 10 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain |
| What do these symbols mean? | |||||