BLACKNOR FAR SOUTH


Blacknor Far South area is now one of the best sections of Portland for mid-grade routes. The ground under the crag has suffered some land slippage but the routes are mostly still accessible.

Conditions
There is little seepage on Blacknor Far South but it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Access
The main access problems here are to do with parking. Please follow the parking instructions described below, this will avoid the problems that have been created in the past by climbers parking randomly in the Weston Estate. Only one short section of the Blacknor Cliffs has a restriction due to nesting birds; no climbing from March 1st to July 31st.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Fear's Younger Brother Area
A great section of the cliff that is packed with flowstone and pocketed walls, giving some very...
18
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

Mechanoids Area
The mid section of Blacknor Far South is home to a line-up of high quality grade 7s and some tough...
19
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

Master of the Rolls Area
The tapering wall passed first on the approach has a number of excellent and popular routes,...
18
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

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