Welcome to Berry Head, Devon's deep water soloing Mecca, with its profusion of isolated grottos, incredible lines and pumpy traverses. The multi-coloured, jug-infested overhanging walls have long been a testing ground for deep water soloists, drawn to the headland's classic high quality traverses and numerous 'up' routes. The huge walls of the Old Redoubt Fort atop Berry Head date back to the times of the Napoleonic Wars, when Torbay was used for anchorage and served as a re-supply point for the British Channel Fleet. The headland was chosen to house a formidable battery of very large guns. You'll see the huge walls, built between 1795 and 1806, all around the headland, including the Berry Head Quarry area.
Routes
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73 dws routes (4...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| The Old Redoubt Berry Head's Old Redoubt crag is one of the UK's most impressive sea cliffs. The Great Cave is an... |
4 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Downhill 20 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 100 |
| Rainbow Bridge - Great Cave The long and involved traverse of Rainbow Bridge is a must for any ambitious deep water soloist,... |
9 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Downhill 20 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 102 |
| Rainbow Bridge - Pink Block Stunning rock and architecture are the backdrop for some great routes that only require a swift... |
8 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Downhill 20 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 105 |
| Rainbow Bridge - Crux Area Home to the smooth, technical crux of Rainbow Bridge and a number of hard steep solos, including... |
5 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Downhill 2 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access no climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 106 |
| Rainbow Bridge - Cod Tympani The next section of cliff is on the other side of the boulder choke which forms the junction of the... |
4 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Downhill 2 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 107 |
| Rainbow Bridge - Terminal Zawn The final section of Rainbow Bridge crosses the feature known as the Terminal Zawn (it's not... |
5 | DWS |
Morning sun |
Downhill 2 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 108 |
| The Oz Wall The Terminal Zawn Ledge gives access to the finish of Rainbow Bridge, and also provides the most... |
4 | DWS |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 110 |
| White Rhino Buttress An excellent steep venue, with amenable low level routes that do not venture too far above the... |
11 | DWS |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access No climbing 1 Mar 31 Jul | 111 |
| Berry Head Quarry For those of familiar with the area, and who have ever wondered just what Berry Head Quarry really... |
23 | DWS |
Sun and shade |
Downhill 15 mins |
Tidal Windy | 112 |
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