CALEY


Almost an urban cliff, Caley is the quick-hit of choice for Leeds-based climbers being only a short car/bike/bus ride from the north west suburbs of the city. Many a fine evening's entertainment has been had by climbers over the years sampling the delights of the extensive boulder fields, or venturing up to the crag to tackle one of the superb routes up there. Since bouldering is very important at Caley, we have gone into more detail than at some other crags in the book, focusing particularly on the significant problems on the boulders around the Great Flake Boulder and under the Main Crag. There is more bouldering available - check out the Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering - Vol. 1 (2008). If it is routes you are after then head up to the Main Crag - there is plenty to go at there although the better ones are probably in the higher grades. Check the conditions carefully since crag is best used as a summer retreat venue.

Routes

49 trad routes (D...E8)
42 boulder problems (VB 4a...V13 8B)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Upper Roadside Boulders
The huge Great Flake Boulder stands proud above the lower set of blocks and dominates the upper...
19
Boulder
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Psycho and Rabbit's Paw Wall
A couple of huge boulders that lean against each other and present an impressive pair of faces...
22
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Main Edge Boulders
Walking up the path towards the Main Edge an array of boulders soon appears through the trees....
22
Boulder
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Noonday Ridge
The Main Edge at Caley is not very extensive, despite this it is home to a very worthwhile set of...
13
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Pedestal Wall
Tucked around the corner from Noonday Ridge is a slumped slab that gives the edge's best easier...
10
Trad
No sun
 
sheltered
Quark
A smooth face with an exceptionally fierce trio of climbs up its left-hand side and a couple of...
5
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For CALEY

    Angel's Wall
    "Not in any way a boulder problem - why change from HVS 5a?" 28/Mar

    Gary Cooper
    "Originally soled and given a grade of HVS!" 20/Jun

    Tippling Crack
    "Terrible." 18/Jul

    High Noon
    "I recall that Track of the Cat was described as best of all that is wicked on gr..." 04/Jan top50

    Tip Off
    "A nice solo. technical moves off the ledge. a better version of teli at stanage ..." 05/Nov

    High Noon
    "never e4 in a million years!" 29/Aug top50

    Holly Tree Scoop
    "The left hand finish up the chimney crack is good and worth a star, the finish u..." 16/Jul

    High Noon
    "Its a brilliant route and if NOT inspected and is sight led, I think it is worth..." 09/Feb top50

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