ANSTEY'S COVE


Anstey’s Cove has some of the best and toughest sport climbing in Britain and its climbing style and rock is in good contrast to that found on Portland and at Swanage. During the late 1980s this small area around Torbay became a popular forcing-ground with many top climbers visiting to try and repeat the hard routes, more often than not with a frustrating lack of success. Since this time the desperate additions by Ken Palmer have kept on appearing at regular intervals and repeats of the hardest lines are rare. Those who are intimidated by the famous big grades of the gnarly routes of the Ferocity Wall should not be put off. The adjacent Empire Wall and Cocytus Area offer a good number of smart easier routes.
As on Portland, the climbs are staple bolted. Only 10 or 12 quickdraws and a 50m rope are needed although an abseil rope is required at Long Quarry Point. The few lines that are not fully-bolted are the quality traditional challenges like Devonshire Cream and The Mitre but these have some fixed gear so just a single rack of wires should suffice.

Routes

18 trad routes (HS...E6)
42 sport routes (6a...8c)
3 dws routes (7b+...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Empire of the Sun Wall
The wall overlooking the approach path has a few traditional routes on its left-hand side. The...
14
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
308
Mitre Buttress
The weirdly-structured and well named Mitre Buttress provides a handful of absorbing and...
12
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

8 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
309
The Upper Wall
The Upper Wall is the short wall above the Ferocity Wall.
3
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

8 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
310
Ferocity Wall
The continuously-leaning and colourfully-streaked Ferocity Wall is one of the UK's most difficult...
15
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

8 mins

Dry in the Rain
310
Upper Cliffs
No description as yet.
3
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

10 mins

sheltered
365
Cocytus Area
Down the slope from the Ferocity Wall is another fine buttress consisting of a series of grooves...
11
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
312
Long Quarry Point
Long Quarry Point is the vast disused open quarry at the northern end of Anstey’s Cove. There are a...
5
Sport
Early morning sun
Up and down

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
sheltered
313
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  • Latest Comments

    For ANSTEY'S COVE

    St Gregory the Wonder Worker
    "very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou" 17/Feb

    Blazing Apostles
    "I cleaned up the corner, ripped a load of grass out and brushed some soil/ dust ..." 09/Jul

    American Express
    "THIN but all the holds are there...good route just a pity it doesn't go on longe..." 19/Jul

    Might and Main
    "Brutal start to a high first bolt. A scarey run out section. Very nice moves. Fe..." 30/Jun

    Empire of the Sun
    "There is a new first bolt" 26/Jun top50

    The Lynch
    "Brutal, utterly utterly brutal..." 06/Sep top50

    The Waffle Supremacy
    "Unfairly maligned in my opinion, this is an excellent route, slightly spoiled by..." 13/Jun

    Big Jim
    "Nice little route with a powerful start and delicate upper section." 10/Sep

    Rawhide
    "Now re-geared and cleaned (two huge blocks came off it), it's not a bad route, i..." 12/Jul

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