LLANYMYNECH QUARRY


The towering grey and red limestone faces of Llanymynech Quarry are home to a large number of fantastic sport pitches, many of which are exceptionally long and often climbable throughout the year thanks to the cliff's sheltered aspect. There is a good depth of quality sport climbing in the 6b to 7b grade span and, as a bonus a handful of excellent trad wall climbs that span the E grade from 1 to 5. The showpieces Nomad, Grid Iron, Black and Red Wall are unmissable when travelling along the road between Wrexham and Welshpool, and sit above a tree covered landscape that was once an active quarry but has now been developed into an attractive nature reserve. As a consequence climbing at Llanymynech Quarry is today an extremely pleasant experience with delightful views out across the River Severn floodplain to the hilltops of The Wrekin and Criggan. There are a number of access restrictions in place - these cover nesting bird sites and access to some of the quarry on ecological and safety grounds - see next page.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Bay Wall
A very sheltered section of quarried wall with some reasonable pitches that can be a little...
14
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Cream Wall
A tall wall of variable rock. The base is prone to becoming heavily vegetated.aAccess - This...
9
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and down

10 mins

Restricted Access
Cult Wall and Cul-de-Sac Quarry
The main attraction here is a leaning wall that is a useful spot for those in need of an intense...
23
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
Nomad Wall
A huge and intimidating wall that has a number of big climbs on good rock. These routes have now...
10
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Foreigner Wall
This is the shattered-looking wall that is next to Grid Iron Wall. It was de-bolted, however the...
14
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Grid Iron Wall
A massive wall with some huge bolted routes that have a slightly adventurous feel about them. The...
19
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Black Wall
Black Wall is a superb vertical face of good rock that compares favourably with any quarried wall...
8
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Red Wall
This is a huge face with some amazing routes that are far more interesting than the rather...
16
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For LLANYMYNECH QUARRY

    Black Bastard
    "Some good moves but a little contrived" 04/Sep top50

    Strawberry Tubin
    "A route of two cruxes, mid height fingery sequence, and the final crimpy move to..." 27/Jul

    Hickory Dickory Dock
    "Definatly reachy, im 6ft 2in and had to lay one on. thought this was trickier th..." 12/Sep

    Dead Man's Fingers
    "Best route i've done on this wall so far. Really worth doing!!" 25/Oct

    Black Wall Direct
    "Where did the 5c come from? Felt more like E1 5b." 12/Oct

    The Screaming Skull
    "Completely disagree having done it many times trad. and when bolted. They are th..." 27/Jul top50

    Nomad
    "Hi Lee, it was good bumping into you the other day, cheers for the info. Yes ..." 21/Jul

    Nomad
    "Hi Nick. I found your comments interesting. Life is full of choices and I gues..." 20/Jul

    Nomad
    "Climbed this yesterday, after T.W.H and T.S.S. Its about 3 or 4 years since i di..." 19/Jul

    Slobberlob
    "Found the crux to be, around the third bolt. moving off a poor crimp and rock up..." 16/Jul

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