RUTHIN ESCARPMENT


(Craig Adwy Gwynt - Crag of the gate of the wind)
The climbing at Ruthin Escarpment has undergone a complete makeover since the last guide was published. Most of the existing routes have been cleaned, bolted and equipped with good lower-offs. Several new routes have been added and some new buttresses have been developed. The recently developed Butterfly Buttress in particular contains some high quality sport routes. All of this makes Ruthin Escarpment a little less esoteric and certainly worthy of attention if you are in the area. The climbing at Ruthin tends to be short, power-packed and very technical. The rock along the whole escarpment is exceptional and takes almost no drainage. There is some good bouldering along the base of Butterfly Buttress - see UKClimbing.com and northwalesbouldering.com

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Beast Wall
A steep section of crag that has some very powerful short pitches on good rock.
5
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Middle Wall
A wall of excellent rock that has a limited selection of technical and fingery lines. This is a...
7
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

sheltered
Peg Wall
A steep section of wall with some old trad lines that have a smattering of fixed gear in the form...
4
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Butterfly Buttress
A short but excellent wall of leaning limestone that contains some of Ruthin's hardest lines. The...
11
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Lost Wall
A steep wall with one very good pitch, that is on private land. See access.Approach - Walk...
4
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

sheltered
Quarry Wall
A roadside wall of bulging rock that has some crumbly sections. It is sheltered and sometimes dry...
4
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
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