Devils Gorge is a difficult crag to categorise, on first appearance the crag looks truly awesome, however the rock especially on the steep wall suffers from a band of crystalline calcite that tends to crumble on contact. The slabby wall by contrast has excellent rock but the lower third can get very dirty and mossy. The steep walls can take several months to completely dry out after winter but then tend to stay dry even in heavy rain. Unfortunately the starts can get very dirty and may need cleaning before an ascent. Nearly all the routes on this wall rely on bolt protection and on a number of the climbs the bolts are either missing or in a poor state this is highlighted in the text. Grand Canyon and its neighbour have recently been re-bolted and are normally very clean. Grand Canyon itself is superb and the crag is worth visiting if only to do this one route.
Routes
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12 trad routes (HS...E4) 9 sport routes (6c+...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |      | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Slabby Wall The easy-angled left-hand side of the gorge is often in a very poor state and usually needs a... |
10 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Downhill 5 mins |
Seepage | 144 |
| Steep Side Most climbers will be amazed when they first see the impressive steep side of the gorge. This huge... |
11 | Sport |
No sun |
Downhill 5 mins |
Seepage | 145 |
| What do these symbols mean? | ||||||
