DEVIL'S GORGE


Devils Gorge is a difficult crag to categorise, on first appearance the crag looks truly awesome, however the rock especially on the steep wall suffers from a band of crystalline calcite that tends to crumble on contact. The slabby wall by contrast has excellent rock but the lower third can get very dirty and mossy. The steep walls can take several months to completely dry out after winter but then tend to stay dry even in heavy rain. Unfortunately the starts can get very dirty and may need cleaning before an ascent. Nearly all the routes on this wall rely on bolt protection and on a number of the climbs the bolts are either missing or in a poor state this is highlighted in the text. Grand Canyon and its neighbour have recently been re-bolted and are normally very clean. Grand Canyon itself is superb and the crag is worth visiting if only to do this one route.

Routes

12 trad routes (HS...E4)
9 sport routes (6c+...7c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Slabby Wall
The easy-angled left-hand side of the gorge is often in a very poor state and usually needs a...
10
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Steep Side
Most climbers will be amazed when they first see the impressive steep side of the gorge. This huge...
11
Sport
No sun
Downhill

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For DEVIL'S GORGE

    Broccoli and Ice-Cream
    "Climbed this on sat, think it was the only route climbable due to the seepage, i..." 09/Apr

    The Ten Year Fog
    "Re-bolted, re-cleaned and extended to the top of the crag. This is another three..." 20/Sep

    Grand Canyon
    "Is access to this crag ok? remember reading that thyere were some issues with it..." 29/Aug top50

    Bananas and Coffee
    "Many years later lets put the record straight. If it's the route I'm thinking..." 04/Feb

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