CRAIG ARTHUR


The huge rampart of Craig Arthur looms impressively over the upper end of the Eglwyseg Valley. At around 40m it is by far the tallest of all the cliffs along the escarpment. The quality and length of the routes - both trad and sport - makes it a crag of national importance, with a number being multi-pitch offerings, adding a welcome dimension to the area that is otherwise dominated by shorter single-pitch climbs. The crag is mostly vertical but frequently crossed by horizontal bands of overhangs, especially in its upper reaches, making for some very exciting finishes. The rock is mainly composed of good-quality weathered white and grey sheets, seamed with some strong crack and flake lines. Some of the less frequented lines still have loose sections and can be a little vegetated. The crag's location is both spectacular and beautiful with expansive views above a base clear of vegetation. Its scree slope shelves away steeply making the exposure felt from the first moves on most routes. Many of the routes, both trad and sport, rely on fixed protection from pegs, threads and bolts although a full rack and double ropes are also required for the trad lines. A clip-stick may be useful as a number of the initial bolts on the sport climbs are fairly high.

Routes

3 boulder problems (VS...E5)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Le Chacal Area
The far left section of cliff is profiled starkly against the skyline as you approach. This section...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Manikins of Horror Area
The left side of this area provides a few superbly sustained and enjoyable pitches but the rock...
13
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Digitron Area
An attractive vertical wall of compact grey rock that has three great climbs on it. Digitron is one...
9
Trad
No sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Ten Area
The stacked roofs at the top of this area are taken by the excellent sport route Ten. The other...
13
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Survival Area
A fine wall of clean and featureless rock save for the subtle crack-line of Survival of the...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Nemesis Wall
Craig Arthur's most impressive wall has a selection of hard, intimidating and adventurous routes...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Rubberbandman Area
The cove between the much larger buttresses of the Nemesis Wall and the Sunnyside Buttress has a...
14
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
Sunnyside Area
The final section of Craig Arthur, just before the descent gully, is a roof-capped wall of good...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For CRAIG ARTHUR

    Delaware Slide
    "Really fun climbing, which deserves more attention. Lower thread is poor, but &q..." 09/Jun

    The Fall and Decline
    "E3 5c. good climbing in the first pitch,pulled a toaster size block off on the l..." 10/Jul

    The Fall and Decline
    "Top pitch contains dangerous loose blocks andy Stewart" 25/Sep

    Survival of the Fastest
    "There used to be a peg runner that protected the crux and with this in place the..." 26/Aug

    Stratagem
    "A well-worth route. Would give it 2 stars as opposed to the 1 star given in CL. ..." 24/Aug

    Survival of the Fastest
    "Confused by Tyler's comment as I led this on Saturday and E5 6a felt spot on. T..." 24/Aug

    Punch and Judy
    "The loss of a hold has made the crux of this route a bit harder, possibly soft E..." 12/Oct

    Digitron
    "Definitely agree that the finishing move from the jug up to the sapling is harde..." 29/Sep top50

    Back Yard Holiday
    "Ah yes - I have to admit that it was my fat arse which snapped that thread almos..." 26/Jun

    Back Yard Holiday
    "Thread no longer in place. Long reaches, old bolt, some dodgy rock. No stars in ..." 25/Jun

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